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A few noob questions...

garththehoser

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Hey guys,
Finally received my DJI FPV Combo yesterday. Still working through setting it up but had a few questions. I did review several of the threads here.

1. Can these goggles be used as a VR headset to accept HDMI in via the USB C port? I read elsewhere that it isn't possible but movies can be played from the microSD.
2. Does the FCC hack work? I'm based in Canada but travel to Europe occasionally.
3. I will be buying a 5" FPV drone in the coming weeks (iFlight Nazgul HD) which comes with Caddx Nebula Nano camera. Will I be able to switch back and forth between the DJI drone and the Nazgul without having to rebind the goggles every time? I will be using a Crossfire receiver and Tango Pro 2.

Thanks,
G
 

droneguy

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Quick answers…

1. no hdmi in or out. There is a new hack/app for video out but no hdmi. You can use av in to connect to external analog content.

2. FCC hack works on vista and air unit. 1200mw hack works on goggles for DJI FPV system not DJI FPV drone.

3. Currently, operating in DJI FPV drone mode then switching to vista or air unit or vise versa requires rebinding. No way around it until a new firmware addresses the issue.
 

rktman

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4. You will need an analog RC, the FPV RCv2 does not work with the Vista system.
 

Terry 63

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Sorry I can not answer any of your questions. But am writing because I also have one of the same questions. I had already ruled out the C port because it seems to only connect with the FLY app. Also the screen resolution of the goggles is odd. At 1440x810 it is not a true HD format. However on the other side of the goggles is a port labeled "audio/AV input" in the instruction manual but DJI has no information on what it is for or how to use it as far as I can see. Slow at typing see there are 2 answers now. My interest is in hooking the goggles to a simulator. I have already been able to hook up the controller thanks to the knowlegeable people on this forum.
 

droneguy

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4. You will need an analog RC, the FPV RCv2 does not work with the Vista system.
Good point, I forgot to mention that as well...
 

droneguy

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Sorry I can not answer any of your questions. But am writing because I also have one of the same questions. I had already ruled out the C port because it seems to only connect with the FLY app. Also the screen resolution of the goggles is odd. At 1440x810 it is not a true HD format. However on the other side of the goggles is a port labeled "audio/AV input" in the instruction manual but DJI has no information on what it is for or how to use it as far as I can see. Slow at typing see there are 2 answers now. My interest is in hooking the goggles to a simulator. I have already been able to hook up the controller thanks to the knowlegeable people on this forum.
If you want to connect any video source to the goggles, you will need a digital to analog converter and use the A/V port. It's not pretty and the resolution is severely affected by the conversion, but it is possible.
 

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garththehoser

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Good point, I forgot to mention that as well...
Thanks, very helpful. I'll be using a Tango Pro 2 with the Nazgul and not the FPV controller that came with the combo.

Couple more questions...

I've already adjusted the throttle for acro flying on the DJI controller. Do I need to adjust it back to recenter for flying in Normal/Sport?

Also, how do you land when flying in Manual? Switch to Normal and land or get close enough to the ground in Manual, throttle down and stop motors?
 

droneguy

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Thanks, very helpful. I'll be using a Tango Pro 2 with the Nazgul and not the FPV controller that came with the combo.

Couple more questions...

I've already adjusted the throttle for acro flying on the DJI controller. Do I need to adjust it back to recenter for flying in Normal/Sport?

Also, how do you land when flying in Manual? Switch to Normal and land or get close enough to the ground in Manual, throttle down and stop motors?


As you probably already know, you'll need to buy a Nazgul with the TBS crossfire receiver to work with the Tango 2 radio.

The throttle on the DJI can be used in the un-sprung or sprung position for all flight modes with a tradeoff for each. If you fly in normal or sport mode the idea radio configuration is the sprung config so the throttle re-centers and the drone hovers in place with the sticks centered or when hitting the pause/panic button. If the stick is un-sprung and not centered, the drone will not properly hold the altitude. An experienced pilot can handle this and would not be affected too much. On the other side, the sprung throttle can he a little distracting when flying manual mode, and the ideal configuration is un-sprung. Many people do however fly in manual mode (myself included) with the throttle in the sprung position. The spring tension isn't so strong that it isn't easily overcome with flying with pinching style control. The reality is switching back and forth is a real pain so choosing one and managing the drawbacks on the other flight modes is what is most appropriate for most.

The DJI drone has always been unstable during landing and having an option to instantly kill the motors is essential to avoid crashes. The new C2 switch config options in the latest firmware addresses this issue and landing in manual mode will now be much safer. Prior to this firmware the safest option was to switch to normal mode then land in the traditional DJI fashion.

Hope this helps!
 
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rktman

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I wish I could get pinching to work for me.. I can't. I just have too much trouble sensing center for yaw, and can't help bleeding some in.
 

droneguy

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I wish I could get pinching to work for me.. I can't. I just have too much trouble sensing center for yaw, and can't help bleeding some in.

What help many in your situation with the transition is to increase the spring tension quite a bit for the first little while then slowly back off the spring tension as you form new muscle memory.
 

garththehoser

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As you probably already know, you'll need to buy a Nazgul with the TBS crossfire receiver to work with the Tango 2 radio.

The throttle on the DJI can be used in the un-sprung or sprung position for all flight modes with a tradeoff for each. If you fly in normal or sport mode the idea radio configuration is the sprung config so the throttle re-centers and the drone hovers in place with the sticks centered or when hitting the pause/panic button. If the stick is un-sprung and not centered, the drone will not properly hold the altitude. An experienced pilot can handle this and would not be affected too much. On the other side, the sprung throttle can he a little distracting when flying manual mode, and the ideal configuration is un-sprung. Many people do however fly in manual mode (myself included) with the throttle in the sprung position. The spring tension isn't so strong that it isn't easily overcome with flying with pinching style control. The reality is switching back and forth is a real pain so choosing one and managing the drawbacks on the other flight modes is what is most appropriate for most.

The DJI drone has always been unstable during landing and having an option to instantly kill the motors is essential to avoid crashes. The new C2 switch config options in the latest firmware addresses this issue and landing in manual mode will now be much safer. Prior to this firmware the safest option was to switch to normal mode then land in the traditional DJI fashion.

Hope this helps!
Many thanks again. Heading out for a flight later today.
 

Terry 63

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What help many in your situation with the transition is to increase the spring tension quite a bit for the first little while then slowly back off the spring tension as you form new muscle memory.
How do you adjust the spring tension on the DJI remote controller 2? I've played with the F1 and F2 adjustments but the return to center spring adjustment seems to be either disengaged, partially engaged, or fully engaged. Once it is engaged if there is any further tension adjustment it is hardly discernable and does not affect the yaw axis as far as I can see.
Is it like a Taranis X9D PLUS, where you can open the case and make spring adjustments on the gimbal itself.
As the DJI Controller 2 comes in the box the return to center function on all axis needs to be stronger to suit me.
 

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