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Adapter to change LHCP antenna on DJI RE Goggles to RHCP

dsmith76

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I want to be able to use the DJI RE Goggles for my analog drones. The antenna plug for the DJI RE goggles is LHCP, but my Tinyhawk 2 drone is RHCP, along with most other micro quads from what I've read. I broke the VTX antenna on the Tinyhawk 2 and replaced it with a Lumineer circular antenna, but it is RHCP. I get a great image five feet away, but very poor range, worse than the linear antenna that came on the quad. I could buy and install an LHCP antenna, but I don't want to have to switch antennas on every analog quad I might buy. It would be cheaper and more convenient to convert the goggles to RHCP. I also have the DJI Digital FPV goggles and RC, but for just flying around the house and yard, it is cheaper to use analog and the quads are much lighter than having the DJI air unit or Caddx. I have searched quite a few SMA connector stores, such as Amazon, but what is needed is an adapter with an SMA male jack to screw into the SMA female plug that is on the goggles and the other side of the adapter needs to be an SMA female jack (not plug) that the SMA male plug on my antenna will screw into. So, what is needed is an SMA male jack to SMA female jack. Darned if I can find one anywhere. I already have an SMA adapter which has female plugs on both sides, so an SMA male jack to SMA male jack would also work, but I cannot find one of these either. Thanks for any links to adapters that will solve this issue.
 
Sounds like you need an SMA to RP-SMA adapter or the opposite, easy to find on eBay or such but we can't direct you without knowing what your actually antenna is.
The connector has nothing to do with the antenna's polarization, there are just 2 connector variants that are used arbitrarily.
 
Sounds like you need an SMA to RP-SMA adapter or the opposite, easy to find on eBay or such but we can't direct you without knowing what your actually antenna is.
The connector has nothing to do with the antenna's polarization, there are just 2 connector variants that are used arbitrarily.
The antenna I bought and installed on the drone is a Lumenier Micro AXII Bare Wire 5.8GHz Antenna (RHCP. I have a Foxeer Micro Lollipop 5.8G RHCP antenna for the goggles. The goggles have a female plug, so I need an adapter with a RP-SMA Male Jack with pin, i.e. it must be threaded to screw into the plug in the goggles. On the other end of the adapter the antenna has an SMA Female/ plug with a Male Pin, so this side of the adapter needs to be an SMA Jack with a female socket. The point is, both sides of the adapter need to have threads, one has a pin, and one has a socket.
Sounds like you need an SMA to RP-SMA adapter or the opposite, easy to find on eBay or such but we can't direct you without knowing what your actually antenna is.
The connector has nothing to do with the antenna's polarization, there are just 2 connector variants that are used arbitrarily.
My point is I need jacks/threads on both ends of the adapter. The RHCP Foxeer Lollipop antenna I bought to replace the DJI RE antenna has a plug with a pin that needs to plug into a jack/threaded adapter with a socket. The goggles have a plug that needs its side of the adapter to be male/threaded with a pin. So, both sides of the adapter need to be male/threaded, one side with a pin, one with a socket. I see one adapter on ebay that has threads on both sides of the adapter, but the photo/description does not make it clear that one side has a pin and one side has a socket. I ordered it anyway. We'll see.
 
Instead of looking for ambiguous pin/thread naming it's best to use the actual connector names.

sma_rpsma-male-female_636715630002666648.jpg

Sounds like you want an SMA female to RP-SMA female adapter.
 
Continuing with this situation, I received and installed the SMA adapter and it fits correctly on the DJI RE goggles and the RHCP Foxeer Lollipop antenna that I bought for the goggles. This antenna was actually recommended as an upgrade to some EMAX goggles I had (the goggles no longer work), but I thought this antenna may also work on the DJI RE goggles. However, the signal is no better than using the LHCP pagoda antenna that comes with the DJI RE goggles. I double-checked the continuity on the Lumineer Micro AXII antenna that I installed on the TinyHawk 2 and it is fine. When I do the the auto-search on the goggles, I usually get 5769 (RaceBand 4) but once or twice it has locked on to 5765 (A6). Using Betaflight I set the VTX milliwatts to 200. My reception is only about 15 feet. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks
 
Even with the wrong polarization you'd have WAY more than 15ft range, so it's unrelated and something's damaged. Maybe the soldering job for the new antenna on the TX side isn't up to par, a trace broke, or the TX burnt itself when the original antenna broke if it was left powered after it did so.
 
Even with the wrong polarization you'd have WAY more than 15ft range, so it's unrelated and something's damaged. Maybe the soldering job for the new antenna on the TX side isn't up to par, a trace broke, or the TX burnt itself when the original antenna broke if it was left powered after it did so.
I think the soldering job was fine--I checked the continuity with my multimeter, but I just finished re-soldering it anyway to make sure it was really solid, but it did not help. Probably your second prognosis is correct. I think I'll just order a new TinyHawk2. It was my first FPV quad and I banged it up pretty good flying it around the house, and I'm not even really sure when I broke the original VTX antenna. You've been really helpful--thanks!
 
Using a multimeter on an RF port can actually kill it as well... need to really know what you're doing when repairing RF stuff.
 
Most everything I have know about FPV has been from forums and watching youtube videos. I watched a youtuber install the same antenna on a TinyHawk2 and after installing it he said to be sure and check the continuity because there is a positive and negative side to the antenna. Looks like he was using a multimeter similar to mine. How would you suggest I check the continuity? Is there another/better way to do it than using a multimeter?
 
Ideally you would not check it, just ensure it visually looks clean and well connected and check the performance meets what's expected.
 

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