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IFLIGHT Chimera4 with Nebula camera.

Madhungarian

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I bought the Chimera4 on clearance from RDQ for 230, the Nebula camera is pretty good, however you cannot change the settings on it. I am getting some oscillations\vibrations\jello on certain throttle levels, any suggestions?, I increased the p and d gain tab which seemed to help but any info on what else I can do would be great, aside from that, the Tango 2 and crossfire is AWESOME, LQ never went below 95 and it mostly was at 99 and the quad itself flies good. I am using the 3000kv motors with 850 and 750 4s lipos.(getting 7-8 minutes) I plan on getting a li Ion just want to break this in a little more since it was my 3rd flight. What do you think of the quality of the video from the nebula? This is dvr from the googles..
 
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I bought the Chimera4 on clearance from RDQ for 230, the Nebula camera is pretty good, however you cannot change the settings on it. I am getting some oscillations\vibrations\jello on certain throttle levels, any suggestions?, I increased the p and d gain tab which seemed to help but any info on what else I can do would be great, aside from that, the Tango 2 and crossfire is AWESOME, LQ never went below 95 and it mostly was at 99 and the quad itself flies good. I am using the 3000kv motors with 850 and 750 4s lipos.(getting 7-8 minutes) I plan on getting a li Ion just want to break this in a little more since it was my 3rd flight. What do you think of the quality of the video from the nebula? This is dvr from the googles..
I have exactly the same setup except I’m using a Radiomaster TX16S rx. I had jello issues with the nano v2 and it turned out to be the mounting screws for the camera. I had checked all the other screws and simply forgot. After I tightened them 99% of the jello disappeared. The camera struggles occasionally with evening light and over saturation but since I fly mostly over desert areas with varying colours, it’s not too bad. I am thinking about updating to a dji camera
but it’s not a deal breaker. Getting similar flight times as yourself and absolutely no issues with crossfire. Just about finished putting together the last bits on my Chimera 7 HD (“the flying tomahawk’) and we will see how that goes.
 
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I have exactly the same setup except I’m using a Radiomaster TX16S rx. I had jello issues with the nano v2 and it turned out to be the mounting screws for the camera. I had checked all the other screws and simply forgot. After I tightened them 99% of the jello disappeared. The camera struggles occasionally with evening light and over saturation but since I fly mostly over desert areas with varying colours, it’s not too bad. I am thinking about updating to a dji camera
but it’s not a deal breaker. Getting similar flight times as yourself and absolutely no issues with crossfire. Just about finished putting together the last bits on my Chimera 7 HD (“the flying tomahawk’) and we will see how that goes.
RDQ also had the chimera7 on clearance for 330, I almost bought it however I hesitated and when I went back to the site like an hour later it was already sold out at that price. I will check the mounting screws, thanks for the suggestion.
 
I am going to try the basic default pids on a different pid profile and see if this does any better since the screws were already tight, the oscillations and jello only seem to happen at certain throttle levels starting around 50 percent and higher.
 
I am going to try the basic default pids on a different pid profile and see if this does any better since the screws were already tight, the oscillations and jello only seem to happen at certain throttle levels starting around 50 percent and higher.
Yeah ok, maybe I got lucky with just the screws being loose. I know the original v1 camera had jello and over saturation issues, but the v2 was a step up and in the right direction. Apparently it’s not possible to tell which version you have just by looking at it. If you have a win, you may have to post up your settings so we can all pinch them!
 
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If this becomes a daily flyer for you, you may want to change the camera to the new Nebula Pro. It is leaps and bounds better than any previous nebula. The Caddx Air unit is the same so no need to swap it, just the camera. The Nebula Pro also supports 4:3 and 16:9 as well as 120fps. The white balance issues on the old Nebulas is gone and it's basically as good as the DJI camera. I probably wouldn't upgrade on an occasional flyer, but if this is your go to quad, it's definitely worth it.
 
Yeah ok, maybe I got lucky with just the screws being loose. I know the original v1 camera had jello and over saturation issues, but the v2 was a step up and in the right direction. Apparently it’s not possible to tell which version you have just by looking at it. If you have a win, you may have to post up your settings so we can all pinch them!
If this becomes a daily flyer for you, you may want to change the camera to the new Nebula Pro. It is leaps and bounds better than any previous nebula. The Caddx Air unit is the same so no need to swap it, just the camera. The Nebula Pro also supports 4:3 and 16:9 as well as 120fps. The white balance issues on the old Nebulas is gone and it's basically as good as the DJI camera. I probably wouldn't upgrade on an occasional flyer, but if this is your go to quad, it's definitely worth it.
I wont be able to fly again till the weekend but I also ordered some tri blades from RDQ, this might help, well see. I will keep you posted.
I might just do that and get the pro version. If I decide to go with the another camera, can I still use the ribbon that I am currently using on the new replacement camera? Thanks
 
I wont be able to fly again till the weekend but I also ordered some tri blades from RDQ, this might help, well see. I will keep you posted.
I might just do that and get the pro version. If I decide to go with the another camera, can I still use the ribbon that I am currently using on the new replacement camera? Thanks
Yes, the cable is the same. You can just plug in the Pro camera and go fly. Jello is typically cause by vibrations getting into the camera or rolling shutter. Eliminating all potential sources of vibrations is the first step because virations are bad for a lot of other reasons too. Then isolate the camera with a soft mount (often TPU helps). The goal is to create a dampening effect for the vibrations to get reduced before transferring into the camera through its mount. There are a number of great tricks for this.
 
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I found out that motor 2 has a vibration at around 1362, all other motors do not vibrate at all, now I see why the jello is happening. RDQ has created a RMA so that I can send it back. motor2.jpg
 
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