Need help with wiring and just everything.

[FRD135i]

Smashed the front of the old asguard aio fc and had to put in a new one. Soldered everything up got it to connect to beta flight one and I had to flip the FC axis. No big deal. Plugged it in the next time (my crappy solder let loose) and the resister or capacitor (I can’t remember the name right now) popped one lead off. Re-crappy soldered it back on and no start up tones. I get signal from my vtx but no actual vid and rx is in and out. I don’t know what I can do, as this is my first rebuild, and I don’t know if anyone can help with how bad I may have jacked it up. So any help would be appreciated and I can provide more info as needed. I’m attaching pictures to see if someone can sift through the carnage.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Wow buddy, that is some rough soldering, you can do so much better with just a little knowledge about how the soldering process will react, a few things to remember to watch out for, and a small amount of practice. Right now you are not applying enough heat (use a hot iron, get in long enough to do the job, and then get out quick as possible), you are not pre-tinning your wires/pads (solder should be rosin core and should be "wetted" all the way to the end of the gold fingers/pads) so in all likelihood there is a cold solder joint(s) or the board has some damage to it. I am mil-spec/NASA-spec certified at miniature and micro-miniature component repair, if you want to chat a bit while you solder on an old board I can teach you a bit about achieving much better results. PM me if you want to talk about it.

 

[FRD135i]

Let me start off by saying, Thank You for your reply. I can hit you up in PM's but I don't mind discussing it here so that other people who may be in my situation can learn as well. There may be people who are just lurking and don't want to ask the dumb, newbie questions.

I am using a ts100 set on 750*f (ish)
The biggest issue I am having is getting the solder to bind to the pads. I have been tinning wires and the pads the best I can. For some reason the solder wants to stay on the tip of the iron and not want to transfer to the pads. Tinning wires, I have no issues. I believe I am using leaded solder but I will check when I get back home.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Sorry for the late reply, been a little busy the last few days.
Running the iron at 750 is way more than enough, I run 450 for small things and up to about 650 for big heat sinks like large power and grounds that have a lot of copper in the board to handle current. Something is wrong and the first thing I would do is use a pink pencil eraser and alcohol to clean the pads good before I tried to solder to them. If you can't get a good tin on the whole pad then it is either dirty or not enough heat is being transferred into the area of work.
Couple rules for iron longevity...
ALWAYS keep a ball of solder on the tip when not actually soldering a connection, solder is a cheap consumable and it keeps the heat from attacking the cladding on the tip and when cold protects the tip from damage if you want to clean the built up flux off the iron with a wire brush. NEVER wire brush the bare tip, if you can see any copper then the tip is toast and the cladding is gone, get a new tip.
Use a damp cellulose sponge to thermal shock the tip and clean off the old solder before applying a small amount of fresh solder to wet the tip, dry irons do not transfer heat well.
When you solder it should flow like water to all areas that are not covered with masking, when the pads and wires are properly tinned with the correct amount of solder then it is just a matter of re-flowing the 2 pieces together using just a touch of new solder (need the flux to clean the connection) or by using just flux (flux causes the impurities in the solder to come to the surface removing them from the internal area of the solder, that's how you get good shiny, strong, and electrically stable connections).