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Flying for awhile now, what fpv racer should i get?

I also want to get a PowerOSD Pro so I can have my goggles display my voltage. Where's a good place to buy one of these with quick shipping?
 
Unfortunately I had ordered a vast majority of the parts before I read your last couple posts but I figure it's my first one and it's a learning process lol. As long as it flies and I gain knowledge for my next ones. I'm now just waiting on everything to get here, should be another week or so. This is the part list I went with:
Lumenier QAV 210 frame
Z.D.P. 2205/2550kV motors
DYS 30A helli ESC'S
NAZE32 FC w/ low V and buzzer
Lumenier CMOS12000HD camera
Lumenier TX5G2R VTx
ImmersionRC clover flex ant (2)
Lumenier 1800mA 4s 75c batteries (2)
Taranis X9D with w/ receiver
Fat Shark HD V2
5.8GHz Module for goggles

After looking over everything I see I'm gonna have a problem with my camera. It shoots in 16:9 and I was looking my goggles only display in 4:3, will the goggles just crop the extra wideness or will my image be distorted (fish eyed) and am I gonna have to get a different camera, which sucks cause I already spent $55 on this one, what do you think?
The issues I see are the camera and batteries. Camera because it's CMOS, not CCD. CMOS is fine when you need a tiny camera for indoor use (Tiny Whoop), CCD is a better camera sensor for outdoor. I don't know how the 4:3 display will handle the 16:9 image from the camera. Try it and find out, if you don't like it you can try a different camera.
As for the batteries, I know people who have had Lumenier batteries arrive to their house leaking in the box.
 
The issues I see are the camera and batteries. Camera because it's CMOS, not CCD. CMOS is fine when you need a tiny camera for indoor use (Tiny Whoop), CCD is a better camera sensor for outdoor. I don't know how the 4:3 display will handle the 16:9 image from the camera. Try it and find out, if you don't like it you can try a different camera.
As for the batteries, I know people who have had Lumenier batteries arrive to their house leaking in the box.
Thanks for letting me know the differences with the cameras. Now all I can do is sit and wait lol.
 
Thanks for letting me know the differences with the cameras. Now all I can do is sit and wait lol.
I think there is more to it than that, it's just what i've observed, the CMOS sensor doesn't deal well with dramatic changes in lighting like the CCD sensor can. There are CCD cameras that handle low light such as RunCam Owl Plus and Foxeer Night Wolf but I don't know of any CMOS cameras that handle bright light like CCD cameras can.
 
I think there is more to it than that, it's just what i've observed, the CMOS sensor doesn't deal well with dramatic changes in lighting like the CCD sensor can. There are CCD cameras that handle low light such as RunCam Owl Plus and Foxeer Night Wolf but I don't know of any CMOS cameras that handle bright light like CCD cameras can.
My next camera is defenitly gonna be a CCD. Ive been looking up a lot of info on the RunCam Owl Plus and this is probably gonna be the one I run on my next quad. Flying at night and being able to see decent would be awesome lol.
 
I have a question about batteries. If I got a couple 1800mah batts which are 14.8v when full, how far down can I take them before I need to land and what voltage or voltage per cell should I never go past if I don't want to damage it? Or will there be directions with them to tell me?
 
I have a question about batteries. If I got a couple 1800mah batts which are 14.8v when full, how far down can I take them before I need to land and what voltage or voltage per cell should I never go past if I don't want to damage it? Or will there be directions with them to tell me?
Fully charged is 4.2v/cell. 4 cell lipo is 16.8v fully charged. 14.8v is 3.7v/cell and is nominal voltage 20% capacity.

When you put the batteries away for extended periods of time, set to storage voltage 3.8v - 3.85v.

Safe discharged is about 3.7v/cell although recoverable from as low as 3v/cell, but I wouldn't make a habit of discharging that low, it accelerates the degradation of the chemicals in the battery.
 
How's it coming?
Hey there buddy how ya been? Well I got all my stuff in yesterday and spent the day putting it all together. I work nights and finished it right before I had to go in, needless to say I was exhausted all night and couldn't think about anything but flying my baby. I got home from work, set up the FC and all of my settings, then I paired and set up my taranis and at this point everything looked good. I got out to the park turned everything on, armed my quad and the two lefts motors started idling twitchy I started to hover it and it immediately kept cutting in and out dropping and rising like it was pulling too mny amps and tripped the system but all very twitchy and rough if barely barely barely get on throttle you can kinda hover without it cutting put as much then any stick command and it seizers out. I may have made one sloppy esc solder that may have two things touching but don't think so cause everything still lights up beeps and it hasn't released any magic smoke lol. Any advise or tips you can give my would be greatly appreciated I just want to get back out there and start rippin! Thanks again guys.
 
I sent you a PM, did you get it? I suggested starting with checking the calibration on the escs, make sure that all 4 are synced.
 
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