Wayno,
No hammer necessary, just a little finagling!
Jerry
No hammer necessary, just a little finagling!
Jerry
Prepping for GEPRC Leopard build...
- Thread starter Jtrjr
- Start date
Wayno52
Well-Known Member
Wayno52
Well-Known Member
Hey Jerry and Vv, in all seriousness roughly how many hours per build? Assuming everything fits and you get a good run at it?
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
Wayno52
Well-Known Member
Too true HTP. My favourite tool. Oh apart from a jack hammer,
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
Named my hammer Will,.....wheres theres a will, theres a way
Wayno,
If I have the time to sit down without other things to do and I've got an easy, no mod build...realistically...3-5 hours. Now that's not an @theGreenOrange build! I like to take my time and try to be careful with my soldering. I'm really paranoid about overheating my electrical components so I leave a lot of cooling time on the table. This build will take me longer because I can't just sit down and do it, I've got other commitments.
Jerry
If I have the time to sit down without other things to do and I've got an easy, no mod build...realistically...3-5 hours. Now that's not an @theGreenOrange build! I like to take my time and try to be careful with my soldering. I'm really paranoid about overheating my electrical components so I leave a lot of cooling time on the table. This build will take me longer because I can't just sit down and do it, I've got other commitments.
Jerry
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
It takes, as long as it takes...lol. i got my 6"stretch leopard frame several weeks back and other parts slowly rolled in. I'm still not done with it.
My quickest was my last one, the "Johnny Cash Cadillac" build, bout a couple hrs not counting swapping out camera and vtx. My builds aren't much to look at but are VERY tough crashwise
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
I think you are right about digital only needing one but i use the ground wire on the signal side anyway
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
Most fc's have a ground pad by the signal pad but you can use a ground pad on the pdb also
HTP,
I think Virtue already got you covered on this question. A lot of guys are not connecting the ground wire saying it's not necessary. All but one of my birds had the signal and ground pads on the FC and ESC. On the one that didn't, I ran them all to a single ground pad on the FC. I figure the ground can't hurt so why not use it if I can. I also don't have the electrical background to make a valid determination on whether it's necessary or not.
Jerry
I think Virtue already got you covered on this question. A lot of guys are not connecting the ground wire saying it's not necessary. All but one of my birds had the signal and ground pads on the FC and ESC. On the one that didn't, I ran them all to a single ground pad on the FC. I figure the ground can't hurt so why not use it if I can. I also don't have the electrical background to make a valid determination on whether it's necessary or not.
Jerry
Ok, it only took me 10 minutes after getting some schooling by you guys to research the control ground. Bottom line is you should always use it and it must be twisted with the signal to reduce/eliminate any spurious noise induced onto the signal wire by either high current draw from the motors, or as an effect of the single white control wire acting as an antenna. Time to tear my bird apart and find where my new ground wires are going to go!
HTP,
You're already becoming an invaluable asset to me and guys like me. People that don't have any electronic experience and in many cases, after researching a particular topic, still don't grasp the concept because it wasn't communicated in layman's terms. I expect I'll learn quite a bit from you if you continue to contribute!
Jerry
Boy...you just opened the flood gates...8x25x366? That's quite an undertaking on this little forum! We'll see how you do!
I love having you here already and I'm going to take you up on that!
Jerry
I love having you here already and I'm going to take you up on that!
Jerry
HTP,
Stand down, Marine! Enough already! We're muddying up my thread!
Jerry
Stand down, Marine! Enough already! We're muddying up my thread!
Jerry
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
Me too HTP, you are needed here, poor Green, he did it all by himself for the longest....lol
I apologize for stalling this thread. Apparently, I picked up the Flu a few days ago and I'm having a very difficult time getting motivated.
I just got confirmation that I'll be receiving the new FrSky R-XSR receivers next week. I think I'll ditch the XSR in this build and use the new receiver. A few new items going into this build, it should be interesting to see how it turns out.
Jerry
I just got confirmation that I'll be receiving the new FrSky R-XSR receivers next week. I think I'll ditch the XSR in this build and use the new receiver. A few new items going into this build, it should be interesting to see how it turns out.
Jerry
Okay, I'm still not 100% (this flu kicked my butt) but decided to try to do a few more things to the Leopard. I'm using the Tramp HV and the straight pigtail would be too tight. With my XT60 leads and the capacitor it just wouldn't work the way I want it to. I also want the connection for the IRC wand sensor to be easily accessible so I can plug it in and take it out easily, therefore I want an angled pigtail and I want to mount the Tramp sideways. The first thing to do was to swap the pigtail:
I used an exacta knife to cut a small piece of the wrapping around the connection to the board and used it to lift up the glue securing the connector. I then connected the new, angled pigtail to the board.
I hot glued the new connector to the board and cut a small piece of clear shrink wrap over top of the new connection where I had cut the original wrap. I then checked fitment and used my heat gun to form the pigtail the way I wanted it.
Lastly, I put it in place to insure that it would fit the way I wanted it to. Now, I need to read up on my new R-XSR and figure out where I'm going to place it.
Jerry
I used an exacta knife to cut a small piece of the wrapping around the connection to the board and used it to lift up the glue securing the connector. I then connected the new, angled pigtail to the board.
I hot glued the new connector to the board and cut a small piece of clear shrink wrap over top of the new connection where I had cut the original wrap. I then checked fitment and used my heat gun to form the pigtail the way I wanted it.
Lastly, I put it in place to insure that it would fit the way I wanted it to. Now, I need to read up on my new R-XSR and figure out where I'm going to place it.
Jerry
