Walkera F210 ( a real bind )

[theGreenOrange]

Oops, this guy says the ARM command is: zero throttle, LEFT yaw. This is backwards from how I normally have seen them, but he has used one and I haven't...

TEST: Walkera F210, the new RTF brushless 5.8G racer reference ? - Drone-Maniac !!!!!!!

 

[Lachlan Peknice]

Also, I wouldn't worry about doing an ARM switch for now. The default for the flight controllers I have used is always: zero throttle, yaw right for 1-2 seconds. Disarm with zero throttle, yaw left.

"Not relevant for an F210 or any Walkera model. The ESCs don't require calibration. They are set at the factory for the Devo radios TX output.

ESC calibration is only required on ESCs that are generic and are expected to work with the different output levels of different radio manufacturers."

I found this on a forum... do I need to set the TX output (not sure what that is) to work with my taranis??

 

[theGreenOrange]

"Not relevant for an F210 or any Walkera model. The ESCs don't require calibration. They are set at the factory for the Devo radios TX output.

ESC calibration is only required on ESCs that are generic and are expected to work with the different output levels of different radio manufacturers."

I found this on a forum... do I need to set the TX output (not sure what that is) to work with my taranis??

Hmm, based on that I suppose if the receiver for the taranis came pre-installed, you would not need to calibrate the ESCs. Did you try to arm it with the stock command: zero throttle, yaw left???

 

[Lachlan Peknice]

Hi,

1. For this, you must take the props off. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

2. plug USB in with main battery disconnected, go to motors tab in cleanflight.

3. Link all motors (on motors tab)

4. Set all motors to 2000 throttle (last slider)

5. Plug in main battery (ESCs will do some beeps)

6. Set motors to 0 throttle.

7. Unplug battery

That should do it, good luck!

Sweet thanks... Do I need to link the remote at all?? Or leave that off for this process?

 

[theGreenOrange]

Sweet thanks... Do I need to link the remote at all?? Or leave that off for this process?

You don't need the remote for this. But based on your last post, perhaps it isn't required.

 

[Lachlan Peknice]

Y

Hmm, based on that I suppose if the receiver for the taranis came pre-installed, you would not need to calibrate the ESCs. Did you try to arm it with the stock command: zero throttle, yaw left???

Yes... tried that arm method... I am using the d4r-II receiver, with the receiver adapter from walkera... from my research i also found this for a different walkera product:

"Now here's the thing.
OpenTX on the Taranis, by default, uses 1000ms to 2000ms channels with 1500ms centers.
DSM2/DSMX protocols use 1100ms to 1900ms channels with 1500ms centers. Now, it's possible to 'overdrive' the channels by putting your rates up to 125%, which gets you to 1000ms - 2000ms.

I'm sending out 1000ms at zero throttle, moving the sticks back and forth following their 'arming' procedure, and getting nothing.

So the simple solution is to limit each channel down to 1100-1900ms, which is very easy on OpenTX and works perfectly, the motors start right up, but then you have no way to cut the throttle and kill the motors, since the throttle channel is limited to 1100ms on the low end.

I ended up configuring the throttle channel to range from 1000-1900ms, with a 20% offset, which lets it sit at 1100ms with zero throttle, but allows the throttle cut switch to be used to disable the motors again. Now, with the other channels all limited to the DSM 1100-1900ms range, it arms perfectly.

That leaves us with the more advanced configuration:
CH1 - Throttle 1000-1900 w/ 20% offset on Throttle Input
CH2 - Aileron - 1100-1900 Reversed
CH3 - Elevator
CH4 - Rudder - 1100-1900 Reversed"

Does this make any sense to you?? I am starting to think the output on my controller isn't synced with my f210??

 

[theGreenOrange]

Y

Yes... tried that arm method... I am using the d4r-II receiver, with the receiver adapter from walkera... from my research i also found this for a different walkera product:

"Now here's the thing.
OpenTX on the Taranis, by default, uses 1000ms to 2000ms channels with 1500ms centers.
DSM2/DSMX protocols use 1100ms to 1900ms channels with 1500ms centers. Now, it's possible to 'overdrive' the channels by putting your rates up to 125%, which gets you to 1000ms - 2000ms.

I'm sending out 1000ms at zero throttle, moving the sticks back and forth following their 'arming' procedure, and getting nothing.

So the simple solution is to limit each channel down to 1100-1900ms, which is very easy on OpenTX and works perfectly, the motors start right up, but then you have no way to cut the throttle and kill the motors, since the throttle channel is limited to 1100ms on the low end.

I ended up configuring the throttle channel to range from 1000-1900ms, with a 20% offset, which lets it sit at 1100ms with zero throttle, but allows the throttle cut switch to be used to disable the motors again. Now, with the other channels all limited to the DSM 1100-1900ms range, it arms perfectly.

That leaves us with the more advanced configuration:
CH1 - Throttle 1000-1900 w/ 20% offset on Throttle Input
CH2 - Aileron - 1100-1900 Reversed
CH3 - Elevator
CH4 - Rudder - 1100-1900 Reversed"

Does this make any sense to you?? I am starting to think the output on my controller isn't synced with my f210??

My God, that is complicated even for an Electrical engineer like myself. I have only worked on custom built drones. But it may be worth a shot. I wish I had some direct experience with Walkeras and could be of more help. I think it is worth a try, just go step by step from what that guy did and we will see what happens?

 

[theGreenOrange]

Y

Yes... tried that arm method... I am using the d4r-II receiver, with the receiver adapter from walkera... from my research i also found this for a different walkera product:

"Now here's the thing.
OpenTX on the Taranis, by default, uses 1000ms to 2000ms channels with 1500ms centers.
DSM2/DSMX protocols use 1100ms to 1900ms channels with 1500ms centers. Now, it's possible to 'overdrive' the channels by putting your rates up to 125%, which gets you to 1000ms - 2000ms.

I'm sending out 1000ms at zero throttle, moving the sticks back and forth following their 'arming' procedure, and getting nothing.

So the simple solution is to limit each channel down to 1100-1900ms, which is very easy on OpenTX and works perfectly, the motors start right up, but then you have no way to cut the throttle and kill the motors, since the throttle channel is limited to 1100ms on the low end.

I ended up configuring the throttle channel to range from 1000-1900ms, with a 20% offset, which lets it sit at 1100ms with zero throttle, but allows the throttle cut switch to be used to disable the motors again. Now, with the other channels all limited to the DSM 1100-1900ms range, it arms perfectly.

That leaves us with the more advanced configuration:
CH1 - Throttle 1000-1900 w/ 20% offset on Throttle Input
CH2 - Aileron - 1100-1900 Reversed
CH3 - Elevator
CH4 - Rudder - 1100-1900 Reversed"

Does this make any sense to you?? I am starting to think the output on my controller isn't synced with my f210??

The controller is clearly bound to the drone though.

 

[Lachlan Peknice]

Thanks for your help... Why can nothing ever be simple hahahaha

 

[theGreenOrange]

Thanks for your help... Why can nothing ever be simple hahahaha

The calibration still may be worthwhile, the f210 uses a different flight controller (f3 based one, same as mine) than the racer 250 so not everything you read about Walkeras will directly apply.

 

[Waylander]

Hi Lachlan
I'm sorry my friend but I do not have any experience with Cleanflight
I have only mapped the original Devo 7 controller.
Perhaps another OP might be able to help, sorry
Waylander

 

[theGreenOrange]

I thought of one more thing: make sure the throttle and other stick commands are working in the correct direction on the cleanflight receivers tab and not reversed. For example, low throttle should show around 1000, high throttle around 2000. If any are backwards, you fix on the taranis itself through the menus. I had to reverse throttle and one or two others on mine.

 

[yogajitsu]

I replaced my rx, pressed it down firmly, tightened the 3 screws, and cleared the old fixed ID... and couldn't bind to the new tx. Googled and found this thread and it helped.
Tightening down too much seems to warp the board and it disconnects. Loosened the screws, pushed the board down and felt a click. Then it binded. Tightenedthe screws jjust enough to contact the board.

 

[Dommarotta13]

Hi alex
Sorry about the delay, here is how I managed to bind the Walkera F210 to another profile in the Devo7 RC, I think this will be the same for a new profile or for a new RC i.e Devo10

Here goes:-
1). With the battery disconnected, remove the 4 screws which hold the (boat shaped) access plate from the underside of the F210.
2). You will see towards the nose of the drone a small square circuit board ( the RX713 reciever) with 2 antenna cables attached to it.
3). From my picture you can see the "Clear" button that I point to with the pen, ( in other post this has the same function as the "Bind" plug )
4). With battery disconnected press and hold the "clear" button, and then connect the battery with the button still pressed.
5). You will see the Red LED to the left of the "Clear" button start to flash slowly,
6). After 5 seconds or so, with the battery still connected, release the "Clear" button, the Red LED will then start to flash quickly.
7). You can now release the "Clear" button, and disconnect the drone battery.
8). Turn on your RC and select the profile for the F210, ensure that "Fixed" binding is switched off, ( see other video links from my earlier posts ), then turn off the RC.
9). Have the F210 near you ready to connect the battery.
10). Turn on the RC and immediately (2 seconds or so) connect the battery to the F210, the binding process will begin and take around 10 seconds

That is what I did to bind a new and modified profile to my F210, hope this helps you, post me if you need more info
Happy Flying
Waylander

I crashed my walkers f210 and had to replace the main board(PDB) . After putting everything back together. I plugged in the battery and the drone does its beeping and then goes into the steady beep beep beep. I try and bind my controller to it and it won't work. I tried your method of using the reset button, but the LED light on the bottom doesn't flash , it's just stays solid red. Any suggestions on what to do? Just trying to fly!

 

[DaveAKA]

Hi Waylander,
Your post helped me as well. Couldn't work out how to bind to my Devo F7 transmitter. That little button is a big one they missed out of the instructions. How did you work it out, quite a process.....THANK YOU.
Regards
Brett

Perth, Western Australia

Did you figure it out? I did, kind of. I literally replaced the stock DEVO 7 with a DEVO 10 TX. Flies great and at a good distance.
Regretfully I just installed Deviation to my DEVO 10 and now both F210 3D and DEVO 10 do not bind. The lights on the back of the F210 seem to reach to the controller but the motors do not activate/spin. Any suggestions? I tried reverting both TX and F210 for stock firmware but not luck.

 

[Coleon]

EUREKA I've managed to do it at long last...........

I have created a new profile, altered the parameters, and bound it to my Walkera F210, may not sound like a big deal, but there is not a single video or instructions on exactly how to do this on an F210, I know I looked long and hard.

The YouTube video suggested by Hebrews12v2 got me part way, I had watched similar videos which did not help me as much, so many thanks to the author Danny Om ( I salute you ), but his video was not specific with regard to the Walkera F210 only about the Devo 7. Anyway long story short I found the "Clear" switch and the correct sequence to operate it and subsequently bind a new profile to the drone.

Then the second person to help was Mike Russell ( equal salutes to you ) his YouTube video "

" will show you how to copy a profile, save it and then change the
DREXP settings and map it to the D/R switch.

Thanks to the other OP's for thier suggestions, if enough people are interested in how to do this I will sit down and write a procedure.

Going to have a LARGE glass ( read bottle ) of wine to celebrate.
Waylander

Hello and Good Afternoon,

I also have the Walkera F210 3D and have been searching for the info regarding "Swapping out my Origional F210 reciever, and buying a TBS reciever, So I can use this TBS Tango II Radio I purchased a little while ago". I aswell have been banging my head against every wall known to man when searching for documentation that would answer my question as to if this scenario would work in the 1st place, And if so, What are the steps and procedures to do so??
Contacting WALKERA about Anything is ABSOLUTLEY POINTLESS - FRUSTRATING to say the least. Theres no info online from what I can gather. Like you said we can pick up "Tid-Bits" on ifo here and there that help a little, But theres nothing that states from beginning to end what steps to take and/or if this is evan possible.

I was doing some digging on here and a couple other forums and after talking to a couple people, Im hoping I can pick up a TBS Nano reciever or something similiar that TBS makes, Install it, wipe out or clear as you stated above, and hopefully Bind that reciever to my F210 and my TBS Tango II. I SO DESPERTLY want to use this Tango II remotye I picked up. I also need to contact TBS via FB or something and piuck there brain and see if they have or can help me figure out evan if this is possible.

I was hoping if you had any spare time or if you have previously written up any procedures to create a new profile, changing settings and Bind/Bound to our F210 Quads?

If you havent maybe you could help me or atleast point me in the right direction.?.?
Either Way, I Greatly Apprechiete Any and All Help....

Thanks,
J.Cole
[email protected]

 

[Coleon]

Anyone......



PLEASE.....?



Man, This Sucks....