Newbie asking for help on choosing equipment

[bzmot]

Hey

I asked Wr4ptr some questions but I guess he's not here too often. Do you think you can clarify these few points for me?

1. Can you recommend any particular goggles? Nothing too heavy with good quality screens.
2.If I go for the DJI system, will the quad usually come with the DJI unit or will they be analog or will the choice be up to me and the video receiver will have to be extra?
3. I'd love to start on with a whoop to practice indoors. Will all those whoops have receivers that support FRSky radios (X7 in this case)? Or is this something I have to make sure about before purchasing?
4. Will the whoops and/or quads in general usually work under Betaflight?
5. Will they have a USB port usually so I can configure them on a PC/Mac with the configurator? I guess the port will be on the FC?
6. As far as the analog system is concerned, are there different ones to choose from or only one gold standard?
7. Do analog goggles usually come with an SD port/screen recording so I can have videos of those flights before I set up a GoPro?
8. Is the OSD a function of goggles or of the flight controller or of both? Will I usually have altitude and battery voltage displayed in the goggles or do I need to buy something extra to have that?

Thanks so much in advance!

 

[Wr4ptr]

Hey

I asked Wr4ptr some questions but I guess he's not here too often. Do you think you can clarify these few points for me?

1. Can you recommend any particular goggles? Nothing too heavy with good quality screens.
2.If I go for the DJI system, will the quad usually come with the DJI unit or will they be analog or will the choice be up to me and the video receiver will have to be extra?
3. I'd love to start on with a whoop to practice indoors. Will all those whoops have receivers that support FRSky radios (X7 in this case)? Or is this something I have to make sure about before purchasing?
4. Will the whoops and/or quads in general usually work under Betaflight?
5. Will they have a USB port usually so I can configure them on a PC/Mac with the configurator? I guess the port will be on the FC?
6. As far as the analog system is concerned, are there different ones to choose from or only one gold standard?
7. Do analog goggles usually come with an SD port/screen recording so I can have videos of those flights before I set up a GoPro?
8. Is the OSD a function of goggles or of the flight controller or of both? Will I usually have altitude and battery voltage displayed in the goggles or do I need to buy something extra to have that?

Thanks so much in advance!

Sorry bzmot. I usually get a notification but didn't with your first reply for some reason, but did for your second post.

1. Goggles: Box goggles (one screen that you look at with both eyes) are the cheapest. There are some good ones but "box goggles" are typically felt to be less desirable. "Fatshark" style goggles are the mainstream norm. Two screens, one for each eye. There are lots of choices if you've got about $300 to spend. I went with Aomway Commander V2s as my first goggle. They were fine for starting out but not great. I recently upgraded to Fatshark HDO2s with a Rapidfire module. When I was researching what I wanted to get next, a nearly half price alternative to what I ended up getting which was recommended to me by a vendor was the Fatshark Attitude V5 with a Foxeer Wildfire module. Everything in that setup is "almost" top notch, but not quite, so it's a little more budget friendly.

2. If you build the quad, it'll be however you build it. It's like my other hobby of building computers. It doesn't "come with" anything. You decide what components you want and order those components and put them together. If you go DJI, you'll have to buy an "air unit" for each quad coming in at around $179 (maybe a bit cheaper now, I haven't looked in a while). Sounds steep, but it saves you from having to buy about $100 in analog components. So, there is a premium but it's more like $79/quad than $179/quad. If you buy a ready to fly (RTF) quad, yes, you'll specify lots of things about it (analog vs digital, receiver type such as frsky vs crossfire, etc).

3. You'll specify what receiver you want it to come with. Some come with no receiver and you just buy it separately. Caveat emptor. Also, keep in mind that air units are currently a bit too large for anything smaller than a 3" quad, so if you go DJI, those goggle won't work with whoops out of the box. You'll either have to buy a set of "cheap" analog goggles to use with the whoops or do a mod to the DJI goggles which (probably) voids the warranty and allows you to add an analog receiver to it (at a cost of $80-$150 for the module).

4. In my experience, yes. There are some alternatives to betaflight (cleanflight, iNav, etc) but BF is mainstream and has lots of compatibility with hardware.

5. Yes and correct. I just bought an FC with built in bluetooth which allows me to connect my quad to my phone and use an app called "speedybee" that basically emulates betaflight. A little clunky for full setup but very good for small tweaks in the field.

6. Rapidfire costs around $150 and is considered by many to be the gold standard. I know that TBS Fusion recently got a hardware upgrade that makes it arguably almost as good as Rapidfire at a cost of around $120. Foxeer Wildfire falls into the "good enough" category and costs around $90. For me, there was little enough difference in cost that I just went with Rapidfire. There is one called "Clearview" which is considered similar to or better than Rapidfire but it never seemed to gain marketshare because it's much more expensive (in the several hundred dollar range).

7. Yes. Most goggle worth their salt have a DVR of some sort that records to a microSD card. These also vary in quality from one to the next. Analog video from these DVRs is typically pretty abysmal and not something you'd want to post on youtube or anything. Lots of "breakup" etc. This is where the DJI system would shine as the in goggle digital feed is very nice to look at. Not as good as a gopro, but "postable."

8. The camera will have an OSD, but you usually turn that off. What people typically refer to as "the OSD" is info that comes from the FC along with the video link. It can display lots of info and you customize what you want to see (and where you want to see it) in BF. If you hook up smartaudio (or Tramp, which are two versions of the same functionality. . .your FC will just be built with either one or the other), then you can control settings on the quad from your radio, like VTX channel and power, rates, PIDs, etc. I have my flight mode in one corner, some battery info in another corner, and my armed time in one corner. That's all I want. For altitude and speed, you can add a GPS and they are pretty cheap, but I've never dabbled in that.

Enjoy!

 

[HighTechPauper]

Very nice write up @Wr4ptr, I will add a few things, ...

1 Top of the line Analog is Fatshark HDO2 or the Orqa FPV.One (which I have), the Fatsharks DVR SUCKS big time (I have had HD2, HD3, HDO and they all suck) and the DVR hasn't changed since day 1 of the company, but Orqa's is a GREAT DVR that does H.264 encoding and 60 FPS. Digital you only have one choice, DJI.
2 If you decide DJI (they JUST HAD a Fathers Day Deal that was KILLER, maybe you can still get in on it) there are now a few of the larger whoop class BNF's that come with it so your choices are down to the 85mm (2 inch prop) quads, example iFlight Alpha A85 HD for one, and more and more are coming out all the time, who knows how small they may end up getting with the Caddx Vista and Nebula Micro camera.
3 If you run the QX7 ACCST model you can get R-XSR (preffered) or the XM+. They have mods out now for the DJI goggles that will NOT void the warranty, are a much more polished product than before, but analog picture through the DJI goggles is a good bit worse than with a decent analog goggle, just keep that in mind, plus you would need an analog module for it of course.
4 There are too many FC FW out there now to count, but the big and popular are BF, FalcoX, EmuFlight, and iNav (a little better for advanced GPS functionality), but start with BF and remember that you can get DJI in as small as 2" but it would be tough to get a GPS on one that small (currently).
6 If you don't go DJI, the latest word is that TBS Fusion is arguably just as good as RapidFIRE (which I have) and the Fusion will do some neat things that RapidFIRE will not if you ever move to TBS Crossfire for your control link.
7 Again, if you don't go DJI, the only goggles that have a good DVR are the Orqa FPV.One (H.264 @ 60 FPS), or you could get a ImmersionRC Powerplay, but they are just so big and bulky to really be useful IMHO.
8 A correction here, Smart Audio and Tramp Telemetry are the 2 flavors of vTX control, but they are NOT a part of the FC, all FC's are capable of doing either (it's just a setting in BF Ports tab under Peripherals) and if you do go DJI, there is a limited functionality with BF OSD (currently, and maybe forever, not many elements are available and working).

As a small history lesson, BF OSD is relatively new (last few years), so before that the camera makers added a mini OSD to the camera that usually only has battery voltage and maybe a timer, but many do not have it anymore since BF OSD is pretty common now even on most whoop class micro FC's. Nobody uses camera OSD's anymore and they need to be turned off or they will get in the way of your BF OSD.

 

[bzmot]

Very nice write up @Wr4ptr, I will add a few things, ...

1 Top of the line Analog is Fatshark HDO2 or the Orqa FPV.One (which I have), the Fatsharks DVR SUCKS big time (I have had HD2, HD3, HDO and they all suck) and the DVR hasn't changed since day 1 of the company, but Orqa's is a GREAT DVR that does H.264 encoding and 60 FPS. Digital you only have one choice, DJI.
2 If you decide DJI (they JUST HAD a Fathers Day Deal that was KILLER, maybe you can still get in on it) there are now a few of the larger whoop class BNF's that come with it so your choices are down to the 85mm (2 inch prop) quads, example iFlight Alpha A85 HD for one, and more and more are coming out all the time, who knows how small they may end up getting with the Caddx Vista and Nebula Micro camera.
3 If you run the QX7 ACCST model you can get R-XSR (preffered) or the XM+. They have mods out now for the DJI goggles that will NOT void the warranty, are a much more polished product than before, but analog picture through the DJI goggles is a good bit worse than with a decent analog goggle, just keep that in mind, plus you would need an analog module for it of course.
4 There are too many FC FW out there now to count, but the big and popular are BF, FalcoX, EmuFlight, and iNav (a little better for advanced GPS functionality), but start with BF and remember that you can get DJI in as small as 2" but it would be tough to get a GPS on one that small (currently).
6 If you don't go DJI, the latest word is that TBS Fusion is arguably just as good as RapidFIRE (which I have) and the Fusion will do some neat things that RapidFIRE will not if you ever move to TBS Crossfire for your control link.
7 Again, if you don't go DJI, the only goggles that have a good DVR are the Orqa FPV.One (H.264 @ 60 FPS), or you could get a ImmersionRC Powerplay, but they are just so big and bulky to really be useful IMHO.
8 A correction here, Smart Audio and Tramp Telemetry are the 2 flavors of vTX control, but they are NOT a part of the FC, all FC's are capable of doing either (it's just a setting in BF Ports tab under Peripherals) and if you do go DJI, there is a limited functionality with BF OSD (currently, and maybe forever, not many elements are available and working).

As a small history lesson, BF OSD is relatively new (last few years), so before that the camera makers added a mini OSD to the camera that usually only has battery voltage and maybe a timer, but many do not have it anymore since BF OSD is pretty common now even on most whoop class micro FC's. Nobody uses camera OSD's anymore and they need to be turned off or they will get in the way of your BF OSD.

Wow, thanks so much for all the answers @HighTechPauper and @Wr4ptr !! You guys are the best!

Just so I get this clear, some more questions

1. Analog vTXs have plenty of OSD options. And if go DJI, OSD will be limited. Is that correct?
2. Does that mean that DJI have their own OSD in the air unit but it's less advanced than what you get on the analog?
3. Do goggles usually support both RapidFire and TBS fusion or do I have to choose the appropriate goggles model for my chosen protocol?
4. Is modding the DJI goggles to support analog a practical and easy solution or is it for the electronically savvy only and something that's likely to give me grief later on?
5: I've heard it said that small whoops will usually require something called D8 support. Supposedly this requires flashing a Taranis QX7 radio. Supposing I get one of those BetaFPV Beta75X whoops to practice, will I need to mod the radio (it's on EU firmware) to make it work?
6. I find many versions of the BetaFPV whoop. Most notable differences are 2S, 3S and 4S versions but also there's a 85X for instance. Does all of this translate to higher power of the motors? The higher the model and the more cells it accommodates, the higher the output?
7. The orqa goggles you recommended look really nice but they are not cheap. Is there any advantage to having really expensive analog goggles over some mid range analog goggles for image quality? I guess what I’m trying to say is is it worth buying these orqa goggles if I’m probably going to end up with DJI anyway? And will video quality be so much better on the Orqa? I only wanna do analog for now because I need to practice on whoops but my ultimate goal is probably going to always be DJI.

 

[HighTechPauper]

This is not easy to explain, but I will try.

1. The OSD has nothing to do with the vTX in analog systems, it is a function of the FC. DJI has its own OSD built into the system but can also add some of the OSD elements from the FC, but not many.
2. Yes DJI has its own OSD but it is not a matter of one being more advanced than the other, it is a matter of what information is available in the OSD that can be displayed.
3. In goggles that will accept a RX module (like FS or Orqa) they will accept all of them and there is no "protocol", only a 5.8GHz video "standard" that they all adhere too.
4. Some mods are simple and are basically plug and play, others require more extensive mods to the wiring inside the goggles.
5. Any QX7 radio that is ACCST protocol will do D8 out of the box, any QX7 that is ACCESS will NEVER do D8 no matter what you try to flash it with. You can look at the bottom right corner of the display and see which you have since it is labeled.
6. You are confusing things here, when you see 85X for instance it is referring to the size of the props and therefore the size of the quad. Whoop class quads are usually 65, 75, and even 85 mm props, but that has nothing to do with battery cell count of 2s, 3s, 4s etc. As quads get bigger (and therefore heavier) they need more power to lift them and fly, higher battery voltage does mean more power, but you wouldn't put a car engine on a bicycle, or try to propel a truck with peddles and a chain. There is a relationship here in how small and/or reliable an ESC can be for the battery voltage and small quads with high cell counts run a much greater risk of failing early in life. This is too complex to cover in a few sentences.
7. There is always an advantage to better gear, but if you plan on going DJI then you should just go DJI and settle for an analog mod to the goggles. If you get an 95X HD Digital then it will have the DJI system, it is too big to fly inside, and it will die on you sooner or later, but it is what it is. This stuff gets destroyed eventually, and some die on the first flight, so there are no easy answers, or guarantees in this hobby.

This is all too complex to explain in a few sentences, it takes time and study to begin to understand what it all means. This is a hobby for tinkerers and those that "just want to fly" and are not prepared for the troubles that come with blown up ESC's, soldering, etc. usually end up discouraged fairly quickly.

 

[bzmot]

This is not easy to explain, but I will try.

1. The OSD has nothing to do with the vTX in analog systems, it is a function of the FC. DJI has its own OSD built into the system but can also add some of the OSD elements from the FC, but not many.
2. Yes DJI has its own OSD but it is not a matter of one being more advanced than the other, it is a matter of what information is available in the OSD that can be displayed.
3. In goggles that will accept a RX module (like FS or Orqa) they will accept all of them and there is no "protocol", only a 5.8GHz video "standard" that they all adhere too.
4. Some mods are simple and are basically plug and play, others require more extensive mods to the wiring inside the goggles.
5. Any QX7 radio that is ACCST protocol will do D8 out of the box, any QX7 that is ACCESS will NEVER do D8 no matter what you try to flash it with. You can look at the bottom right corner of the display and see which you have since it is labeled.
6. You are confusing things here, when you see 85X for instance it is referring to the size of the props and therefore the size of the quad. Whoop class quads are usually 65, 75, and even 85 mm props, but that has nothing to do with battery cell count of 2s, 3s, 4s etc. As quads get bigger (and therefore heavier) they need more power to lift them and fly, higher battery voltage does mean more power, but you wouldn't put a car engine on a bicycle, or try to propel a truck with peddles and a chain. There is a relationship here in how small and/or reliable an ESC can be for the battery voltage and small quads with high cell counts run a much greater risk of failing early in life. This is too complex to cover in a few sentences.
7. There is always an advantage to better gear, but if you plan on going DJI then you should just go DJI and settle for an analog mod to the goggles. If you get an 95X HD Digital then it will have the DJI system, it is too big to fly inside, and it will die on you sooner or later, but it is what it is. This stuff gets destroyed eventually, and some die on the first flight, so there are no easy answers, or guarantees in this hobby.

This is all too complex to explain in a few sentences, it takes time and study to begin to understand what it all means. This is a hobby for tinkerers and those that "just want to fly" and are not prepared for the troubles that come with blown up ESC's, soldering, etc. usually end up discouraged fairly quickly.

Ah I see, it's the prop size. Now it's all clear. Yeah it's basic physics, I understand. We had a fairly good physics program in school though I hated it. Now it helps sometimes. I just wasn't clear about the designations cause if you see something like BetaFPV Beta75X 4s FrSky and you're a newbie, it takes some time to sink in.

Agreed on the tinkering, I wanna try that. However, even Bardwell said modding the goggles is not for the faint of heart and I don't wanna practice my newly acquired soldering skills on EUR800 worth of kit. So there. I'll think it over. Maybe try and find a more user-friendly mod. However, people do complain about high latency with those mods so maybe I'll just get a cheapo pair of FatSharks for the whoops.

Once again, thanks for the invaluable contribution. When I get the gear, I will for sure share! Have a nice day!

 

[HighTechPauper]

A couple of things, Bardwell's video is old (6 months) and does not take into account some of the newer products for this like this one for example.

BDI Digital Adapter Plug & Play Analog Adapter for DJI HD FPV System

This injection molded adapter is the cleanest way to install analog receiver on your new DJI HD FPV Goggles without hassles. Shop today:

www.airbladeuav.com

The high latency was associated with the AV Input on the goggles, that has been fixed in the latest revs of software, but the picture from the DJI analog will not be as good as on analog goggles.

 

[tevek]

A couple of things, Bardwell's video is old (6 months) and does not take into account some of the newer products for this like this one for example.

BDI Digital Adapter Plug & Play Analog Adapter for DJI HD FPV System

This injection molded adapter is the cleanest way to install analog receiver on your new DJI HD FPV Goggles without hassles. Shop today:

www.airbladeuav.com

The high latency was associated with the AV Input on the goggles, that has been fixed in the latest revs of software, but the picture from the DJI analog will not be as good as on analog goggles.

Without interrupting this thread, the latest FW update did fix a lot of the latency issues with the DJI goggles and I’m also waiting for the adapter plate from BDI (on back order) to move my current analogue set up from the side to the front. As for picture quality, running analogue is quite reasonable with the adaptor but for anything involving flying around buildings and the the like, my fat sharks with a TBS Fusion rx is the weapon of choice.
Does spending money on this hobby ever end?

 

[bzmot]

Without interrupting this thread, the latest FW update did fix a lot of the latency issues with the DJI goggles and I’m also waiting for the adapter plate from BDI (on back order) to move my current analogue set up from the side to the front. As for picture quality, running analogue is quite reasonable with the adaptor but for anything involving flying around buildings and the the like, my fat sharks with a TBS Fusion rx is the weapon of choice.
Does spending money on this hobby ever end?

It's like every hobby I guess

 

[bzmot]

A couple of things, Bardwell's video is old (6 months) and does not take into account some of the newer products for this like this one for example.

BDI Digital Adapter Plug & Play Analog Adapter for DJI HD FPV System

This injection molded adapter is the cleanest way to install analog receiver on your new DJI HD FPV Goggles without hassles. Shop today:

www.airbladeuav.com

The high latency was associated with the AV Input on the goggles, that has been fixed in the latest revs of software, but the picture from the DJI analog will not be as good as on analog goggles.

Wow This is great help!

So if I understand correctly, the choice between RapidFire and Fusion for analog video would consist in pairing the correct VTx on the drone with the corresponding receiver module on the goggles, right?

I also believe found my first whoop here:

BetaFPV - Beta75X 3S Brushless TinyWhoop Drone (FrSky LBT)

BetaFPV Beta75X 3S Brushless TinyWhoop Drone (Frsky LBT) - ARFThe new Beta75X 3S -> The tinywhoop race killer!BetaFPV is known for making micro drones, also known as "power whoops or tiny whoops". This new Beta75X has new 1103 8000KV engines and an updated F4 flight controller with built-in 12A...

fpvracing.eu

You said that ACCST supports D8 out of the box and ACCESS doesn't. I checked and I have ACCST, which seems to be the older version of the radio. Now, I hear there are different versions within the ACCST firmware. Is there a chance that this whoop's receiver won't work with my particular TX firmware (it's LBT, that's all I know)?

Oh and I just saw a youtube video where someone reviewed this drone and they got one that with a battery already. I'm guessing the one from my link doesn't. Do these little whoops normally come with or without one?

 

[tevek]

It's like every hobby I guess

Good point, and considerably cheaper than my other hobby - motor bikes...….

 

[HighTechPauper]

See responses in RED...

Wow This is great help!

So if I understand correctly, the choice between RapidFire and Fusion for analog video would consist in pairing the correct VTx on the drone with the corresponding receiver module on the goggles, right?
All 5.8GHz vTX's will work with all 5.8GHz vRX's, they all follow the same video standard, it is generic.


You said that ACCST supports D8 out of the box and ACCESS doesn't. I checked and I have ACCST, which seems to be the older version of the radio. Now, I hear there are different versions within the ACCST firmware. Is there a chance that this whoop's receiver won't work with my particular TX firmware (it's LBT, that's all I know)?
They should work fine together. Your radio is EU/LBT and the 75X says it is EU/LBT.

Oh and I just saw a youtube video where someone reviewed this drone and they got one that with a battery already. I'm guessing the one from my link doesn't. Do these little whoops normally come with or without one?
They usually do NOT come with batteries, you must buy them separately. One more word of caution here, if you run 3s the risk that it will blow an ESC is much higher than if you run 2s, not saying you shouldn't run 3s, just saying that the chances of it frying are greater. And do not forget, when you fly, you crash, and when you crash, things break. There is no such thing as a quad that is bulletproof.

 

[bzmot]

See responses in RED...

Thank you again for the excellent reply!

>> All 5.8GHz vTX's will work with all 5.8GHz vRX's, they all follow the same video standard, it is generic.

So forgive me a dumb question but why is there a choice between RapidFire, Fusion and other analog transmission systems. I was under the impression that there was one consider better than the others and some other that were more or less inferior. So they are all the same? Sorry but this is confusing.

Again, thanks for the battery tip. I'll start with smaller ones then.
And actually, I am thinking about changing the first whoop to something even smaller and cheaper, like this:

https://www.amazon.de/Micro-Whoop-BETA65S-Quadcopter-Version/dp/B074N5DNR8/ref=pd_sbs_21_3/257-0643789-1980727?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074N5DNR8&pd_rd_r=67a15164-d24e-4621-a57b-cc886b21fed1&pd_rd_w=xXBaO&pd_rd_wg=Tmo0l&pf_rd_p=42bf0ad8-ce6f-4127-a2f0-106727020a41&pf_rd_r=1221HAJCX8KEN9XKPAJN&psc=1&refRID=1221HAJCX8KEN9XKPAJN

This one is probably even slower and easier to start with than the 75X, is good for 1S batteries and might be better for me. As you say, I will crash a lot. And that makes me wanna get a cheaper one. I might get two different ones for comparison, an eachine or an emax, with this BetaFPV.

I will for sure also go with DJI goggles and the BritishDroneIndustries adapter. This looks really great.

Also I was thinking that maybe 30 degree camera angle (as on the BetaFPVs) might not be the best starting point. The goal for me will be to move slowly for now, so probably I'll try and find something with an adjustable camera angle or possibly something where the angle is not so great, like 20 or 15 degrees maybe.

Thanks guys again and have a great Sunday!

 

[HighTechPauper]

Again, see in RED below

>> All 5.8GHz vTX's will work with all 5.8GHz vRX's, they all follow the same video standard, it is generic.

So forgive me a dumb question but why is there a choice between RapidFire, Fusion and other analog transmission systems. I was under the impression that there was one consider better than the others and some other that were more or less inferior. So they are all the same? Sorry but this is confusing.
Why is there more than 1 car maker, they all drive on the same roads, why more than 1 food store, they all sell the same foods, why more than 1 internet provider, they all get us to the same internet. A $50 OwlRC running Achilles firmware works 95% as good as a $150 RapidFIRE, there is hype and individual perception and performance differences, but a $65 FuriousFPV True-D will do 98% of what the high priced ones will, how much will you spend for that additional perceived 2-5% improvement?


This one is probably even slower and easier to start with than the 75X, is good for 1S batteries and might be better for me. As you say, I will crash a lot. And that makes me wanna get a cheaper one. I might get two different ones for comparison, an eachine or an emax, with this BetaFPV.
I think you are thinking about this wrong, these are all very fast, the 65S is just about as fast as the 75X and the 85X, it is smaller and lighter so it will really go, but will handle wind worse than a bigger one. If a very good pilot ran a 65S and you run a 75X he will still beat you every time, very few people can run full throttle and maintain control. The smaller ones have less mass, so they have generally less damage in a crash because they are not as heavy and therefore the momentum x weight is much lower. Think of it like throwing a brick at a window, it will break the window, now throw a small pebble at the window, there is much less chance of breaking the window, they are both hard objects, but the weight makes the difference when thrown with the same force. Again I hope this makes sense.

Also I was thinking that maybe 30 degree camera angle (as on the BetaFPVs) might not be the best starting point. The goal for me will be to move slowly for now, so probably I'll try and find something with an adjustable camera angle or possibly something where the angle is not so great, like 20 or 15 degrees maybe.
There is so much to this, but I will say 2 things, you will need a small camera angle to start with, but as soon as you start flying forward you will be looking at the ground and wont be able to see where you are flying. When you take off or land you will need to learn to fly by the bottom of the screen, and when you start really moving forward quicker you will be flying by the top of the screen, it is a balance between seeing the ground when level, and seeing where you are going when yo fly forward. Also, flying very slowly has its own issues and is harder than flying with some amount of speed, when you are going slowly or hovering you are sitting in more dirty turbulent air that makes the quad unstable, when you fly forward with some amount of speed you are flying into cleaner and comparatively more still air which makes the quad handle better. The best thing you can do is to have a larger area, stay more in the middle, and keep moving forward until you get better at controlling the quad. Once you are much better you can work on slow precision flying.

Thanks guys again and have a great Sunday!
You have a great day also!

 

[bzmot]

Again, see in RED below

>>Why is there more than 1 car maker, they all drive on the same roads, why more than 1 food store, they all sell the same foods, why more than 1 internet provider, they all get us to the same internet. A $50 OwlRC running Achilles firmware works 95% as good as a $150 RapidFIRE, there is hype and individual perception and performance differences, but a $65 FuriousFPV True-D will do 98% of what the high priced ones will, how much will you spend for that additional perceived 2-5% improvement?

Now it's all perfectly clear. Whatever I buy in terms of whoops or analog VTx drones, it'll work with the goggles' receiver. Thanks!

>>>I think you are thinking about this wrong, these are all very fast, the 65S is just about as fast as the 75X and the 85X, it is smaller and lighter so it will really go, but will handle wind worse than a bigger one. If a very good pilot ran a 65S and you run a 75X he will still beat you every time, very few people can run full throttle and maintain control. The smaller ones have less mass, so they have generally less damage in a crash because they are not as heavy and therefore the momentum x weight is much lower. Think of it like throwing a brick at a window, it will break the window, now throw a small pebble at the window, there is much less chance of breaking the window, they are both hard objects, but the weight makes the difference when thrown with the same force. Again I hope this makes sense.


Makes a lot of sense yes... Well, I think I'll just get a few different ones. Probably start with lighter ones at home and then as I get the hang of it I'll move outdoors with heavier ones to battle the wind better.

>>The best thing you can do is to have a larger area, stay more in the middle, and keep moving forward until you get better at controlling the quad. Once you are much better you can work on slow precision flying.

That would be the dream. Unfortunately I live in a big congested city with people everywhere, even in parks, especially now in the summer. No car either, cause it's pretty useless here. Add to that the covid situation where nobody is certain if it's safe to travel outside the country yet or can afford to anymore and we got ourselves a real tight situation. So that's why I'll stay indoors at the beginning...Would hate to fly into someone.

 

[bzmot]

I ended buying these two for starters:

BETAFPV Meteor65 Frsky LBT 1S Brushless Whoop Drone with BT2.0 Connector F4 1S Brushless FC 19500KV 0802 Motor Micro Tiny Whoop FPV Racing Whoop Drone: Amazon.de: Spielzeug

BETAFPV Meteor65 Frsky LBT 1S Brushless Whoop Drone with BT2.0 Connector F4 1S Brushless FC 19500KV 0802 Motor Micro Tiny Whoop FPV Racing Whoop Drone: Amazon.de: Spielzeug

www.amazon.de

BETAFPV Beta65S Frsky 1S Brushed Whoop Drone with F4 SPI Frsky FC M01 AIO Camera 19000KV 7X16 Motor for Tiny Whoop FPV Racing: Amazon.de: Spielzeug

BETAFPV Beta65S Frsky 1S Brushed Whoop Drone with F4 SPI Frsky FC M01 AIO Camera 19000KV 7X16 Motor for Tiny Whoop FPV Racing bei Amazon.de | Günstiger Preis | Kostenloser Versand ab 29€ für ausgewählte Artikel

www.amazon.de

I'll report back after the first crashes

L.

 

[bzmot]

Again, see in RED below

Actually one more thing: I asked the BDI about it but they're not too quick to answer. If I use the goggles with the DigiDapter, can I still record the video feed using the goggles DVR?

 

[HighTechPauper]

I think the answer is yes, but I am not 100% sure on this.

 

[bzmot]

I think the answer is yes, but I am not 100% sure on this.

Got it thanks!

 

[bzmot]

I think the answer is yes, but I am not 100% sure on this.

Guys hello again, I got a little Meteor 65 from BetaFPV and will start to fly it indoors first, so LOS obviously. I ordered a digidapter but there are shipping delays and customer service not very responsive. Anyway, in the meantime because I have the DJI goggles I wanted to order an analog module for the digidapter. I thought of rapidfire. Can you tell me if this is right for me:

ImmersionRC Rapid FIRE mit Analog-Plus Brillenempfangsmodul: Amazon.de: Spielzeug

ImmersionRC Rapid FIRE mit Analog-Plus Brillenempfangsmodul: Amazon.de: Spielzeug

www.amazon.de

It does seem a little expensive. Or is this what it should cost?