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Cerberus Trifecta - Cerb v2 newbe build

Like Green, I use the silicone motor pads even if I softmount my FC. I will typically complete the install with the silicone pads without loctite. I always tighten the motor screws in very small increments with a cross pattern method.

I will fly a half dozen or so packs through the bird checking the motor screws at the end of each pack. After I've flown it for a bit and none of the motor screws are coming loose, I'll start adding (blue) loctite to the motor screws. I'll remove one motor screw from each motor, put a drop of loctite on each of the 4 screws, then reinstall them. I'll repeat this process until loctite has been applied to all motor screws.

I never use loctite on nylon parts!

Jerry
 
Like Green, I use the silicone motor pads even if I softmount my FC. I will typically complete the install with the silicone pads without loctite. I always tighten the motor screws in very small increments with a cross pattern method.

I will fly a half dozen or so packs through the bird checking the motor screws at the end of each pack. After I've flown it for a bit and none of the motor screws are coming loose, I'll start adding (blue) loctite to the motor screws. I'll remove one motor screw from each motor, put a drop of loctite on each of the 4 screws, then reinstall them. I'll repeat this process until loctite has been applied to all motor screws.

I never use loctite on nylon parts!

Jerry

Me too Jerry, except I stop after the first paragraph and start drinking beers :D
 
I don't use loctite and only use two screws per motor.

Virtue,

You and I definitely do things differently!

You seem to love the way your birds fly. I truly believe that if you soft mounted your motors you'd see a marked and noticeable improvement in the flight characteristics.

For me, the "trick" is to not torque them down, effectively eliminating the whole purpose of soft mounting. Once you find the sweet spot, where the motors are stable but the soft mounts aren't crushed, you're good to go.

Again, for me, four screws provide a more even pressure on the motors and mounts. Especially, when you're not torquing them to their limits. The weight difference of the 8 additional screws is negligible at best.

Even Harley-Davidson realized the benefit of soft mounted motors. The bikes I ran in the eighties (because it was cool) were hard mounted with every nut and bolt crushed. My back was destroyed. I felt every single divot in the pavement and railroad tracks, forgetaboutit! Today, I can run 500-1000 miles with my soft mounted stuff, 300-500 with the hardtails, if I'm lucky and feeling like a tough guy.

Give it a shot. It's super cheap and easy. If you don't see the benefit, let us know. I'll be shocked if you don't see a marked improvement.

Jerry
 
Yeah i soft mounted motors before i used Raceflight. The gummies seem to isolate the fc really well making soft mounting the motors redundant.
EDIT: I don't remember seeing anyone soft mounting motors with RF
Also, soft mounting motors cant hurt for your hd camera tho
 
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well, im reading that the radiance fc, though feature flush, is highly susceptible to vibration so this specific build seems to beg for vibration suppression everywhere.

great input everyone!

im looking to set this up as charge and fly. im usually half hammered when i fly so checking screw tightness in between flights.. I'll lose that battle. these elements need to be set and stay put.
if im dreaming and need to realise a more stringent preflight check let me know if my expectations are off.
don't get me wrong, i inspect the flier every flight and finger it in detail every evening while charging batteries. but nuts and screws are currently assumed to be set. i need a solution that doesn't move/ loosen.
 
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its Monday, but ill work to reconfigure the stack based on everyone's input here. ill post the outcome. ill probably try the o rings i have before ordering the gummies. we will see if that's needed and include that experience in this thread.
i like the idea of changing out the stack spacers with a single through bolt (probably have four in my spares box). this seems like a stronger solution.
i still want the red gummies... if only for aesthetics.
 
its Monday, but ill work to reconfigure the stack based on everyone's input here. ill post the outcome. ill probably try the o rings i have before ordering the gummies. we will see if that's needed and include that experience in this thread.
i like the idea of changing out the stack spacers with a single through bolt (probably have four in my spares box). this seems like a stronger solution.
i still want the red gummies... if only for aesthetics.
Some times when using bolts and spacers you can get shorts from the pdb/fc to carbon fiber, it's happened to me and i think Jerry has had issues with this method also
 
im usually half hammered when i fly so checking screw tightness in between flights.. I'll lose that battle. these elements need to be set and stay put.

Not sure that being hammered while flying is the best idea but to each his own. This is a one time fix. 5-6 batteries checking the screws, once the Loctite goes on they don't need to be checked other than through normal maintenance.

Jerry
 
its Monday, but ill work to reconfigure the stack based on everyone's input here. ill post the outcome. ill probably try the o rings i have before ordering the gummies. we will see if that's needed and include that experience in this thread.
i like the idea of changing out the stack spacers with a single through bolt (probably have four in my spares box). this seems like a stronger solution.
i still want the red gummies... if only for aesthetics.
Some times when using bolts and spacers you can get shorts from the pdb/fc to carbon fiber, it's happened to me and i think Jerry has had issues with this method also

In my opinion, the stack can be constructed using nylon bolts. It's got to be a pretty severe crash to bust the nylon bolts on a short stack like you're employing and it's a relative easy fix if it does get broken. Virtue is right, though, you have to be extremely careful if using steel bolts as the tiniest little contact will create a short.

Jerry
 
unfortunately, i can't use raceflight with the radiance fc, i asked. my mini flies an RF fc and betaflight isn't an option so im stuck using two different fc software ) :

ill end up having to learn both. this is one mistake i made but the micro is also going to run betaflight. the mini is going to be the red headed step child until i Change out the fc... not going to happen anytime soon cause its awesome as is.
definitely something to pay attention to when building a "fleet" is making sure the bits all support the some fc software.
 
unfortunately, i can't use raceflight with the radiance fc, i asked. my mini flies an RF fc and betaflight isn't an option so im stuck using two different fc software ) :

ill end up having to learn both. this is one mistake i made but the micro is also going to run betaflight. the mini is going to be the red headed step child until i Change out the fc... not going to happen anytime soon cause its awesome as is.
definitely something to pay attention to when building a "fleet" is making sure the bits all support the some fc software.
You may end up changing the others to RF:rolleyes::D
 
good point about nylon not being conductive, so let me summarise here:

soft mounting the fc in a stack is SOP now with the current gyros.
anything but hard mounting is better than nothing as long as you can get it tuned

has anyone had issues with double sided tape soft mounts on the motors... eg. during replacement, you found the glue was up into the motor? or is this myth?
 
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