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"Good Deal" thread

Green,

The Split 2 is now in release. There have been some issues with the first version. One that can really give people a headache. You can't have the USB connected while the battery is plugged in or you'll fry the board. There have been a lot of complaints about the board failing when the bird is crashed. The new board will take a wider range of voltage, not just a straight 5v. There's a new WiFi port that uses a USB port instead of the clumsy connector the old board uses. There is also a protective cover for the new board.

Personally, I won't be buying anymore of the old version. There are enough positive changes to make the 2 a better product.

Jerry
 
Green,

The Split 2 is now in release. There have been some issues with the first version. One that can really give people a headache. You can't have the USB connected while the battery is plugged in or you'll fry the board. There have been a lot of complaints about the board failing when the bird is crashed. The new board will take a wider range of voltage, not just a straight 5v. There's a new WiFi port that uses a USB port instead of the clumsy connector the old board uses. There is also a protective cover for the new board.

Personally, I won't be buying anymore of the old version. There are enough positive changes to make the 2 a better product.

Jerry

Typical Runcam release schedule! Lol, thanks Jerry for the heads up.
 
It's basically just a directional resistor. Very high resistance in one direction, very low (like a wire) in the other. But I was thinking it was frying computer USB ports until I went back and re-read your post. I don't know why the runcam board would fry if both battery and USB were plugged in, so a diode might not help.
 
Green,

My electronic knowledge is not enough to know the "why". It appears as though when the Split is connected via the USB port it's putting power to other components. When the battery gets plugged in it overloads the voltage regulator, maybe???

I have a question that you may be able to answer. On my Crossfire build I am considering using a Pololu to power the Split (1) so I don't overload the BFF4 FC. I've never used a Pololu before, will I need to use an LC Filter as well? I was hoping I could just connect the Pololu to the Lipo and the Pololu to the Split? This is the Pololu I'd be using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M25USU5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks,

Jerry
 
The RCSv1 pulls too much current for anything but a USB v3 (~650ma minimum) so any older PC's with USB v2 or lower will not be able to supply enough current and will cause PC USB port shutdown/damage or cycling on and off. It will also send power back out the power connector when the USB is plugged in so that could/would significantly increase the current draw from the PC's USB port to well above 650ma. Lap flowing a diode in the correct direction on the power lead to the RCSv1 acts as a check valve of sorts and lets current flow only one way, into the RCSv1 and not out. Should work fine to keep the swift from back powering the rest of the stuff that is hooked to the 5v bus/rail.

Does that make any sense Jerry?
Randy
 
I don't have my swift's yet but I plan to make a small harness using an appropriate pin/socket size to extend the WiFi module so I can plug it in easily without clearance issues or shorting anything. I think using some servo extender cables will be the right size pin/socket to extend the WiFi but I will have to wait until I have a swift in hand before I make that determination.

I will decide on a small diode and lap flow it onto the 5v power input wire (and heatshrink over it) to keep from back powering anything in the bird when the USB is plugged into the swift. I may also just use the wifi to download stuff off the sd card to avoid any possible power issues even tho I do have usb 3.0 ports on my PC and shouldn't have an over current issue on my PC's usb ports.
 
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Not at all to me Randy, but I liked it anyway. Great to have you and Green for super techy stuff . I know I will be calling on you both soon enough.

Always at your disposal Wayne and Jerry! This diode fix would be super simple to implement, any questions on how, please let me know and I will be glad to assist.
Randy
 
I have a question that you may be able to answer. On my Crossfire build I am considering using a Pololu to power the Split (1) so I don't overload the BFF4 FC. I've never used a Pololu before, will I need to use an LC Filter as well? I was hoping I could just connect the Pololu to the Lipo and the Pololu to the Split? This is the Pololu I'd be using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M25USU5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks,

Jerry

Jerry, personally I would try it first without any additional filtering.
 
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Jerry,

I have been trying to look into this Runcam Split USB issue. I can't find anything relating to the lipo being involved. The posts I can find all say that the split passes power from USB to the quad's 5V components, possibly overloading the 500mA rating of USB2.0 and burning out the USB port. (The split itself can use up to 650mah, I don't know how much when not recording)

I can also imagine a scenario where on a higher current port like a USB3.0 port (900mA standard rating) the power drawn by the Quad's 5V components exceeds the capacity of the 5V circuit on the Split and kills it but I find that less likely to occur. Maybe if you have a 5V VTX or a bunch of 5V LEDs, etc?

Anyways, the good news is the diode should fix both these issues.

Plugging in the lipo would be an interesting experiment but I would think it would be OK. The quad's 5V supply might fight the USB 5V supply a little bit, but if they are both close to 5V I wouldn't expect an issue. Not that I would try it necessarily on my good computer :D
 
Everything I read lines up with Greens very detailed explanation, he is spot on and covered some of the intricate aspects of the issue I failed to.
 
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Oh the other thing not addressed is when you plug your FC usb up to the PC it will again be powering the split causing a possible over current on the PC usb port and the diode cant stop this because it is the direction of flow the same as if the battery were powering the quad, so that is something to keep in mind even if you have a diode in place.

EDIT: Maybe my bad, if the swift 5v is wired to the PDB instead of 5v on the FC I dont know if the FC backfeeds the USB 5v back to the PDB and would power the swift that way. Either way I guess you need to take care that you dont overload the pc usb when you plug it up to either swift or fc
.
 
Not that this is a deal anyone here would be interested in buying, but I thought it was interesting anyway. It can't be much for as cheap as it is but boy does it look very similar to the $1000 model made by the "other" company.

Eachine E58,From $38.99---banggood.com
 

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