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Need help buying the correct parts for my first racing drone.

That camera looks good. I think I'll stick to the Eachine due to better antennas, since if I add the antenna cost, its about the same as the TR1. Here is my final list of things to buy:

Drone Parts:

Am I missing anything critical?
 
IMHO...
I think you want the standard FC, the one you picked is an AIO. And is setup for individual ESC’s and not a 4in1. If the ESC has a bet and 5volts output, or you pull the 5volts off the vtx to power the FC might be a lot cleaner install. If you look at the FC it is setup to have the battery pigtail connected there, but if you look at the 4in1 it is also setup to have the battery pigtail connected there. Connecting the battery input to both is an option but I dont like the battery being available all over the FC outputs without anything hooked up to them, seems like a shorting hazard.

The ratel starlight is new and is not the same as the original daylight camera and it is more expensive I think. Just an FYI, you may want to look for starlight reviews.

There may be more, but I am on the road so I will have to wait till I get home to do more comparisons and research.
 
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HighTechPauper said:
IMHO...
I think you want the standard FC, the one you picked is an AIO. And is setup for individual ESC’s and not a 4in1. If the ESC has a bet and 5volts output, or you pull the 5volts off the vtx to power the FC might be a lot cleaner install. If you look at the FC it is setup to have the battery pigtail connected there, but if you look at the 4in1 it is also setup to have the battery pigtail connected there. Connecting the battery input to both is an option but I dont like the battery being available all over the FC outputs without anything hooked up to them, seems like a shorting hazard.

The ratel starlight is new and is not the same as the original daylight camera and it is more expensive I think. Just an FYI, you may want to look for starlight reviews.

There may be more, but I am on the road so I will have to wait till I get home to do more comparisons and research.
Click to expand...
Ah I see. So in that case whats is the difference between Matek f722-STD vs Kakute F7 1.5?
 
1ikhan said:
Ah I see. So in that case whats is the difference between Matek f722-STD vs Kakute F7 1.5?
Click to expand...
One is made by Holybro and the other is made by Matek LOL!

I haven't done a huge amount of reading on the two but can say that the Kakute is better setup for a build like yours I think, it is rated as 6s capable on the B+ pin of the header connector which the ESC puts out on its header connector. There is so much to consider that it would take some time and research to figure out the differences, but I know some people did have issues with the Kakute due to the very sensitive gyro (most prefer the MPU6000 to this one because it is too sensitive to be on our quads as they vibrate a lot) and also that it would pop off the mounting foam, so there are considerations for all of them that you might want to consider.

One thing is for sure, research the specs and make sure you know how you plan to wire everything up before you purchase.
 
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HighTechPauper said:
One is made by Holybro and the other is made by Matek LOL!

I haven't done a huge amount of reading on the two but can say that the Kakute is better setup for a build like yours I think, it is rated as 6s capable on the B+ pin of the header connector which the ESC puts out on its header connector. There is so much to consider that it would take some time and research to figure out the differences, but I know some people did have issues with the Kakute due to the very sensitive gyro (most prefer the MPU6000 to this one because it is too sensitive to be on our quads as they vibrate a lot) and also that it would pop off the mounting foam, so there are considerations for all of them that you might want to consider.

One thing is for sure, research the specs and make sure you know how you plan to wire everything up before you purchase.
Click to expand...
Oh word, I'll stick to the STD then, maybe they will come out with the HIV edition soon lmao. DW man, doing plenty of research, and your guidance is a big part. So Imma go ahead and make the orders then!
 
HighTechPauper said:
One is made by Holybro and the other is made by Matek LOL!

I haven't done a huge amount of reading on the two but can say that the Kakute is better setup for a build like yours I think, it is rated as 6s capable on the B+ pin of the header connector which the ESC puts out on its header connector. There is so much to consider that it would take some time and research to figure out the differences, but I know some people did have issues with the Kakute due to the very sensitive gyro (most prefer the MPU6000 to this one because it is too sensitive to be on our quads as they vibrate a lot) and also that it would pop off the mounting foam, so there are considerations for all of them that you might want to consider.

One thing is for sure, research the specs and make sure you know how you plan to wire everything up before you purchase.
Click to expand...
Actually, I give up. Going with the HGLRC f7 stack.
 
@1ikhan, I don't know that my initial opinions are good enough thoughts to cover all aspects of your purchase, they are meant just as things to consider in the thought process of picking parts. There is certainly other choices for all this stuff out there, some of your parts are expensive overkill, I still run plenty of 20 and 30 amp ESC's, so the 60 amp ESC is not going to make any difference for you, it is just way over spec'ed for anything but full throttle for the whole battery... and that is just not conceivable.

The HGLRC stack is as good a choice as any. There is no guarantee with this stuff, nature of the beast, but 9 times out of 10 things go together and work great, as long as you plan the build so you know exactly where everything will go and how it it is supposed to work.
 
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HighTechPauper said:
@1ikhan, I don't know that my initial opinions are good enough thoughts to cover all aspects of your purchase, they are meant just as things to consider in the thought process of picking parts. There is certainly other choices for all this stuff out there, some of your parts are expensive overkill, I still run plenty of 20 and 30 amp ESC's, so the 60 amp ESC is not going to make any difference for you, it is just way over spec'ed for anything but full throttle for the whole battery... and that is just not conceivable.

The HGLRC stack is as good a choice as any. There is no guarantee with this stuff, nature of the beast, but 9 times out of 10 things go together and work great, as long as you plan the build so you know exactly where everything will go and how it it is supposed to work.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, thanks! I have a pretty decent idea of how to wire the hglrc, so shouldn't be too hard. But something just might not work as intended and I'm also ready for that. Exciting times ahead!
 
1ikhan said:
Hey just wondering, what's the max continuous amp draw for the motors? Wasn't able to find that info.
Click to expand...
You won't find that info, it is always variable depending on voltage, props size and pitch/profile/load, and of course throttle position.
The 2 ESC ratings are for continuous, and 10 second burst, the Buzz is rated at 45 amp continuous and 55 amp burst, and realistically no battery can actually provide that. On 4s you could draw a good bit but you will not exceed 55 amps and it will never be fore 10 seconds straight anyway. On 6s the amps will be lower by comparison because voltage is higher and yo will need less amps to get the same effect. Max for these motors is likely in the 40-50 amp range if you could hold it at full throttle long enough. Why are you asking?
 
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HighTechPauper said:
You won't find that info, it is always variable depending on voltage, props size and pitch/profile/load, and of course throttle position.
The 2 ESC ratings are for continuous, and 10 second burst, the Buzz is rated at 45 amp continuous and 55 amp burst, and realistically no battery can actually provide that. On 4s you could draw a good bit but you will not exceed 55 amps and it will never be fore 10 seconds straight anyway. On 6s the amps will be lower by comparison because voltage is higher and yo will need less amps to get the same effect. Max for these motors is likely in the 40-50 amp range if you could hold it at full throttle long enough. Why are you asking?
Click to expand...
Ah gotcha. I was just ensuring there would be no battery bottleneck. So when I looked at someone testing these motors on YouTube, I noticed at 6s these draw around 30 amps but with a lower kv, so I'm assuming at 1800kv these will draw like 35, and the battery is rated for 100c continuous, and that's about 150amps. So assuming I pin the motors to the max for 3 seconds, the current usage will not exceed what the battery can provide for the bursts. Just some paper math I guess.
 
Actually, the ESC's and the motors current handling ability bottleneck has been blown wide open with the latest offerings, and the battery has pretty much always been the biggest bottleneck, but again, who can hold the thing open for that long, top rated racers pretty much are the only ones who do. The C ratings on batteries are bogus, and not much more than a marketing ploy, but the bigger the number, the better the battery is rated to perform, so always go with the highest you can get. When you peg the throttle long enough to really tax the battery, the battery heats up more, the voltage will drop faster, and you will get shorter flights... that is exactly what happens as you get to be a better and faster pilot. But rest assured, there will be a ton of fun with what is currently available, and you can do amazing things with only 20 or 30 amps per motor. Again, IMHO
 
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HighTechPauper said:
Actually, the ESC's and the motors current handling ability bottleneck has been blown wide open with the latest offerings, and the battery has pretty much always been the biggest bottleneck, but again, who can hold the thing open for that long, top rated racers pretty much are the only ones who do. The C ratings on batteries are bogus, and not much more than a marketing ploy, but the bigger the number, the better the battery is rated to perform, so always go with the highest you can get. When you peg the throttle long enough to really tax the battery, the battery heats up more, the voltage will drop faster, and you will get shorter flights... that is exactly what happens as you get to be a better and faster pilot. But rest assured, there will be a ton of fun with what is currently available, and you can do amazing things with only 20 or 30 amps per motor. Again, IMHO
Click to expand...
Understood. I'm getting ahead of myself lol. Good to know that the c ratings are inaccurate, but also makes me wonder how many decades away we are from seeing carbon nanotube batteries. I imagine by then motors can easily handle 8s, then we can maybe go faster than a mid tier sports car. So as far as I'm concerned the escs as you have mentioned before are overkill for this build, but shouldn't break a sweat with the motors going at 100% for bursts. Overall this build shouldn't be too heavy, so here's hoping I can break 100mph with this. I don't care so much about serious racing, just want to push things to the limits.
 
Yeah, as you may know, FAA prohibits us from going over 100, but people still do.
Also we already have 8s rated parts out there in the wild, and 150+mph is already in the books, and people are always trying to break old records.
 
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1ikhan said:
I imagine by then motors can easily handle 8s, then we can maybe go faster than a mid tier sports car.
Click to expand...

Over 200 here, but that's GPS read

I always like Bob's breakdowns. This one broke 160 mph certified by Guinness Book

They use 8s and even 12s for Beast class and X class rigs
 
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rtkDarling said:
Over 200 here, but that's GPS read

I always like Bob's breakdowns. This one broke 160 mph certified by Guinness Book

They use 8s and even 12s for Beast class and X class rigs
Click to expand...
Dude are you sure that last one isn't some classified military tech? I was just sitting here thinking 8s is long ways away lol
 
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X-Class is running as high as 12s or higher, saw one running 16s, but of course that is usually multiple batteries in series with each other since there are no packs made with that many cells.
 
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