Need help buying the correct parts for my first racing drone.

[1ikhan]

It seems when you have a large number of items in a BG shipment it will take extra time to arrive, I doubt BG will offer to refund when the package is very likely to arrive at some point. It is a dilemma when the parts inevitably show up and you have received a refund. Of course you can return the parts but will pay shipping I think, or you can save for a bit and have 2 quads. This is a never ending game, chasing the latest greatest which seems to come out weekly, but that parts list sounds real good.

Grass keeps getting greener, I just saw 2208 motors, now I want those lmao. I think it's worth my time and a little bit of money to return those and buy stuff that makes more sense. Dunno, will see what bg does.

Anyway, here is the multimeter vs lipo tester readings.



Multimeter readings cell to cell:
3.82/3
7.66
11.50
15.33
19.16
22.9

 

[HighTechPauper]

Grass keeps getting greener, I just saw 2208 motors, now I want those lmao. I think it's worth my time and a little bit of money to return those and buy stuff that makes more sense. Dunno, will see what bg does.

Anyway, here is the multimeter vs lipo tester readings.
View attachment 3668
View attachment 3667

Multimeter readings cell to cell:
3.82/3
7.66
11.50
15.33
19.16
22.9

Your reading the battery wrong with the meter, the ground lead walks down the balance connector along with the positive lead so that you measure each cell individually before comparing, use the 20v scale.

 

[1ikhan]

Your reading the battery wrong with the meter, the ground lead walks down the balance connector along with the positive lead so that you measure each cell individually before comparing, use the 20v scale.

Oh whoops, figured it wouldn't matter if you take the difference from the readings.
Done correctly, I get 3.82/3 for all of them, with fluctuations when held for 10 seconds for each cell. Only cell 2 and 4 dont fluctuate. The past two tests were done on the lipo i didnt short btw.

 

[HighTechPauper]

You should find that the shorted battery reads fine too, I doubt any real damage was done.

 

[1ikhan]

You should find that the shorted battery reads fine too, I doubt any real damage was done.

Yep, seems so. I'm assuming if there was no significant heat, the actual chemistry of the battery was unchanged. The short didn't cause the battery to get warmer.
Is that how it works?

 

[HighTechPauper]

Yep, seems so. I'm assuming if there was no significant heat, the actual chemistry of the battery was unchanged. The short didn't cause the battery to get warmer.
Is that how it works?

Those are pretty extreme conditions, and would only happen in a long term short at the point of its failure. There are a lot of variables here but the big ones are...

Did the whole battery get shorted briefly, or did I just short one of the cells, if so it is possible to do a little damage to that one cell that you can't see but may show itself in the end to be the weak one in the pack.

The battery is made to push big current (high C rating) and that's exactly what it did, the wires and probe tips etc. took more of the abuse than what the battery did, it just heated and melted a little metal and we hope it isn't too bad on the battery side where the arcing took place.

When you plug in a quad, it too looks like a dead short for a split second, and a little longer if it has big filter caps attached. So you really did nothing different to the battery and the weakest (smallest) part took all the brunt. Battery chemistry itself doesn't really change with heat much, but the galvanic corrosion that occurs on the ends of the plates gets worse over time and drives up internal resistance, which causes more heat.

 

[1ikhan]

Those are pretty extreme conditions, and would only happen in a long term short at the point of its failure. There are a lot of variables here but the big ones are...

Did the whole battery get shorted briefly, or did I just short one of the cells, if so it is possible to do a little damage to that one cell that you can't see but may show itself in the end to be the weak one in the pack.

The battery is made to push big current (high C rating) and that's exactly what it did, the wires and probe tips etc. took more of the abuse than what the battery did, it just heated and melted a little metal and we hope it isn't too bad on the battery side where the arcing took place.

When you plug in a quad, it too looks like a dead short for a split second, and a little longer if it has big filter caps attached. So you really did nothing different to the battery and the weakest (smallest) part took all the brunt. Battery chemistry itself doesn't really change with heat much, but the galvanic corrosion that occurs on the ends of the plates gets worse over time and drives up internal resistance, which causes more heat.

Oh wow that's a lot to consider. So would it be accurate to say that permanent damage is done by heat? You can always get new connectors and stuff.

 

[1ikhan]

@HighTechPauper Just got the htrc charger, and man does this thing feel a lot more premium than the b6. Was able to convince BG to give me a refund for the b6, showed them a calibration mismatch.

Turns out that the connector I arc welded on the battery is done for good, wont let me plug things to it. List of things to do just keeps getting bigger.

I am in the process of discharging the battery with the good connector to 18.6 then charging it back to 25.2 to get it warmed up for use.

I also ended up filing a claim with paypal for the package that still hasn't arrived. Tired of BG telling me to wait. Never BG again for big orders.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Got a few pics of this balance connector you say is toast? I would like to have a look in case I can make any suggestions.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Also, discharging the 6s to 3.1 volts per cell won’t do it any favors, I wouldn’t go below 3.4 at the lowest.

 

[1ikhan]

@HighTechPauper here it is. You can see the metal embedded inside.

Hmm, as for lipo operating rangers, its safe to keep it between 3 to 4.2 volts per cell right?

 

[HighTechPauper]

Ok, so it is the mains lead and not the balance connector. You may be able to clean it up a little with a round file. Usually the black is just surface burn and they all get a bit of that just from the arcing that occurs when you plug your quad into them, a little work with an exacto knife to clean up the melted metal, or a small round file and maybe clean up a bit with a q-tip slightly whetted with isopropyl alcohol. Just a few thoughts bud. On battery voltage, yes, above 3v resting is said to do little to no damage, but the cell has been severely discharged nonetheless, and anything below 3.5 is considered completely discharged. Running a battery down that low is over discharging the cell, and that does weaken it, below 3 is damage that is more severe. I recommend for best battery life and performance that they never go below 3.5 resting. IMHO

 

[1ikhan]

Ok, so it is the mains lead and not the balance connector. You may be able to clean it up a little with a round file. Usually the black is just surface burn and they all get a bit of that just from the arcing that occurs when you plug your quad into them, a little work with an exacto knife to clean up the melted metal, or a small round file and maybe clean up a bit with a q-tip slightly whetted with isopropyl alcohol. Just a few thoughts bud. On battery voltage, yes, above 3v resting is said to do little to no damage, but the cell has been severely discharged nonetheless, and anything below 3.5 is considered completely discharged. Running a battery down that low is over discharging the cell, and that does weaken it, below 3 is damage that is more severe. I recommend for best battery life and performance that they never go below 3.5 resting. IMHO

Understood, 3.5 it is.
As far as cleaning, I'll just get a new connector since I don't have a file handy at the moment, and a fresh new one should conduct better than whatever cleaning I could do myself with the tools I have with me.

 

[1ikhan]

And while I'm at it, might as well switch everything over to xt90 since the battery can output more amps than what the xt60 can handle.

 

[HighTechPauper]

@1ikhan, please remember to tape off one of the battery leads and heat shrink the one soldered before removing tape from the other lead, many think they can keep them apart while working with them but that is a bad idea. And while the xt60 is only rated to 60 amps I would think if it was a big issue racers would move to XT90 but they haven't, so not sure it would really be an issue.

 

[1ikhan]

@1ikhan, please remember to tape off one of the battery leads and heat shrink the one soldered before removing tape from the other lead, many think they can keep them apart while working with them but that is a bad idea. And while the xt60 is only rated to 60 amps I would think if it was a big issue racers would move to XT90 but they haven't, so not sure it would really be an issue.

Alright man, **** is finally coming together. After fighting with banggood about not receiving the package, then never receiving a refund, I decided to eat the cost and rebuy components. All the things should be here next week.

So now, final parts list:
Frame: Source One v3
FC: CL Racing F7 V2 MPU6000
ESC: CL Racing 45A 32bit 4in1
Motors: iFlight Xing-E 2207 1800kv
VTX: Rush Tank Ultimate
Camera: Caddx Ratel
Battery: CNHL Black 1500mah 6s
Rx: R-XSR
Tx: X9 Lite Pro
Vrx: Eachine 800d

Overall very satisfied about this final setup, I feel like the price to performance value is far better than my previous list.

 

[1ikhan]

Alright so I need a bit of guidance. Should I redo the solder job on the esc? I'm still learning and I don't know if the connection can supply 30a per motor.

 

[rtkDarling]

Should I redo the solder job on the esc?

Yes. You can add a little solder (and some flux, like a flux pen) and the joints will get glossy smooth.

Chemtronics CircuitWorks CW8100 No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen, 9ml: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Chemtronics CircuitWorks CW8100 No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen, 9ml: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[1ikhan]

Yes. You can add a little solder (and some flux, like a flux pen) and the joints will get glossy smooth.

Chemtronics CircuitWorks CW8100 No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen, 9ml: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Chemtronics CircuitWorks CW8100 No Clean Flux Dispensing Pen, 9ml: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

That looks so much better lmao
Thanks man

 

[1ikhan]

I can almost feel what it's like to a bird ?